Photo by Lara Schutsky Thompson
TOP 10 SPECIES
Top 10 lists are voted upon by the participants at the completion of
each tour.
RANCHO NATURALISTA, COSTA RICA
August 5 - 13, 2006
Trip Report by Leader, Kevin Easley
Aug 5: Everyone arrived to the San Jose International Airport on time and was taken to the Hotel Bougainvillea. Dinner was, as usual, great at the hotel restaurant and soon everyone was in their comfortable rooms for some much needed rest before a fine week of tropical birding.
Aug 6: We started off the tour in great fashion in the hotel gardens. Soon we were looking at Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Great Kiskadee, Blue-and-white Swallow, Clay-colored Thrush, Blue-gray Tanager, and Rufous-collared Sparrow. We spent some quality time in the herb garden where we were fortunate to find a male Canivet's Emerald, Rufous-capped Warbler, Grayish Saltator, the rare and local Prevost's Ground-Sparrow, the unique White-eared Ground-Sparrow, and many others. On the other side of the garden we enjoyed a distant White-tailed Kite, cooperative Blue-crowned Motmot and Squirrel Cuckoo, and a Rufous-browed Peppershrike. New and odd names of birds were coming fast as this was the first trip to the tropics for the five participants. After a fine breakfast we loaded up the comfortable van chauffeured by Eric Gamboa, for our visit to Irazu Volcano National Park. After driving through San Jose and Cartago we soon found ourselves on the slopes of this dormant but still potentially active volcano looking for the many highland endemics that occur here. Our first stop produced the lovely Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher, Slaty Flower-piercer, and even Mourning Dove, quite local in Costa Rica. Our next stop in a small village gave us great looks of Band-tailed Pigeon and Sooty Robin, among others. In the forest dominated by giant oaks we hit the gold mine for highland birds. Highlights were many and included the Chiriqui race of Red-tailed Hawk, Fiery-throated Hummingbirds showing their fiery throats, Volcano Hummingbird, Acorn Woodpecker, the precious Black-capped Flycatcher - Tom's favorite bird of the trip -- the spritely Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush, the sleek Black-and-yellow Silky-Flycatcher, Yellow-winged Vireo, the stunning Flame-throated Warbler, and a very close pair of Black-cheeked Warblers. THE highlight at this stop proved to be two male and one female Resplendent Quetzals that eventually posed in the scope for us. We continued higher up to the Irazu Volcano crater. The clouds were rolling in and many people returning from the crater viewing area said that it was not visible. Fortunately the clouds broke several times while we were there giving us superb views of the crater below. At lunch we were joined by Volcano Juncos looking for scraps and, near the bathrooms of all places, we called in the skulking Large-footed Finch that eventually showed to satisfaction. We next birded the stunted forest where we found a pair of the local Timberline Wren plus Mountain Elaenia and Sooty-capped Bush-Tanagers. Returning to the oak forest, we birded the same area as before and added Ruddy Treerunner and Ochraceous Wren. With a great birding day in the highlands in the books we drove to Rancho Naturalista, our home for the next seven nights. After we settled into our rooms we had a delicious dinner prepared by the kitchen staff at Rancho - a common occurrence while at Rancho indeed.
Aug 7: We met on the balcony for coffee at 5:45 AM, joined by Ernesto Carman, the excellent resident bird guide at Rancho who would accompany us for the remainder of the tour. While on the balcony we were thoroughly entertained by the stream of birds coming to the bananas and rice set out for them. Species at the feeders included Gray-headed Chachalaca, Collared Aracari, Black-cheeked and Hoffmann's Woodpeckers, Brown Jay, Blue-gray, Palm, Passerini's, Crimson-collared, and White-lined Tanagers, Buff-throated and Black-headed Saltators, Montezuma and Chestnut-headed Oropendolas, and Melodious Blackbirds among the Variegated Squirrels and Dusky Rice Rats. Hummingbird feeders and the vervain flowers in the garden provided a nice distraction with an array of hummingbirds within a few feet of us. Hummingbirds noted from the balcony included White-necked Jacobin, Brown Violet-ear, Green-breasted Mango, Rufous-tailed and Violet-headed Hummingbirds, an immature male Black-crested Coquette, the delicate Green Thorntail, Violet-crowned Woodnymph, the amazing Snowcap - both males and females, and the large Green-crowned Brilliant. Ernesto scoped our first group of Brown-hooded Parrots that perched long enough for everyone to get excellent views. Other birds not on the feeders but seen from the balcony included the impressive Keel-billed Toucan - all agreed it is quite the bird, Tropical Parula, Bananaquit, Golden-hooded Tanager, a stunning male Green Honeycreeper for some of the group, and views in the open of Yellow-billed Cacique which are usually rather skulking. Breakfast on the patio was often interrupted with bird sightings such as the male White-winged Becard on this particular morning. After breakfast we birded in front of the lodge where a dead tree provided us great views of Rufous-winged Woodpecker, nest-hole searching Masked Tityras, and the colorful Golden-hooded Tanager. Band-backed Wrens noisily went about their business and fruiting mistletoe attracted both Yellow-crowned and Yellow-throated Euphonias for our admiration. Entering the primary forest the birding was not as easy, but with patience and persistence we managed some very fine birds. In the forested ravine we found Purple-crowned Fairy, Collared Trogon, Broad-billed Motmot, Smoky-brown Woodpecker, the tiny Olivaceous and more robust Spotted Woodcreepers, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Stripe-throated Wren, and Golden-crowned Warbler to name a few. We were fortunate indeed to have scope views of a pair of Black-headed Nightingale-Thrushes that were returning to some low branches across the ravine - I can't remember ever scoping this skulker before! The hummingbird feeders in the forest provided more views of these often feuding little gems with many male White-necked Jacobins, the aggressive Brown Violet-ears, and the forest inhabiting Red-footed (Bronze-tailed) Plumeleteer. After lunch and a siesta we started off this overcast afternoon with birding down the entrance road. This immediately paid off when Ernesto spotted a Long-billed Starthroat teed up at eye-level. This is a very uncommon species at Rancho and the views were excellent! In the top of a Guatemalan Cypress tree we scoped our only Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher of the tour, a migrant from South America; they would soon be leaving for their winter quarters although winter seems the wrong word for the Amazonian Basin. Streak-headed Woodcreepers and Cinnamon Becards were also seen nearby. Back in the primary forest we added Plain Xenops, the secretive Black-throated Wren, and the more confiding White-breasted Wood-Wren. At the lodge we staked out the cabin feeders where a male Violet Sabrewing showed briefly, leaving everyone to comment on its enormous size for being a hummingbird. With darkness approaching we concluded our first day of birding at Rancho - WOW! Another great dinner followed by the nightly checklist review and off to birder's dreamland.
Aug 8: Another morning on the balcony and everyone was coming to grips with the many new birds, now calling them out by name as they appeared. After breakfast we birded briefly by the parking lot where a pair of Black-crowned Tityras, a Cocoa Woodcreeper, a Long-billed Gnatwren, and a group of Bay-headed Tanagers all showed marvelously. On the road again with Eric we set out for the nearby sites of Platanillo, the Mine Road, and the lower Tuis Valley. A stop en route produced a pair of Gray-breasted Martins at close range, followed by Ruddy Ground-Doves and Groove-billed Anis at the same site. At the Platanillo Marsh we had excellent views of a pair of displaying Roadside Hawks, a perched White-tailed Kite, a responsive and cooperative Slaty Spinetail, scope views of the uncommon and local White-throated Flycatcher, a very close Gray-crowned Yellowthroat along with a brief showing a male Olive-crowned Yellowthroat, Thick-billed Seed-Finch, and the adorable Yellow-faced Grassquit. En route to the Mine Road we stopped for Torrent Tyrannulet and Black Phoebe along the river. After getting out of the van on the Mine Road, a road that parallels a beautiful river through a very narrow forested valley, we had great views of a responsive Bay Wren. Further along the road we found a Green Kingfisher, a showy Buff-rumped Warbler, and a responsive pair of Dull-mantled Antbirds. We worked a mixed flock for quite some time pulling out a male Collared Trogon, Plain Xenops, Russet Antshrike, Slaty-capped Flycatcher, a female White-winged Becard, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Yellow-green Vireo, Lesser Greenlet, and White-shouldered Tanager. The highlight of this flock for Ernesto and me was a Green Shrike-Vireo, a species rarely seen in the Rancho Naturalista area. Ernesto had noted a calling Tawny-chested Flycatcher earlier in the walk and on the return we located this rare species, one of the most sought after flycatchers in Central America. Having no luck in finding Sunbittern along the Mine Road we headed for the Tuis Valley to try there. With diligent searching we were unable to locate this inspiring and unique species (stay tuned however) but did manage good views of Bright-rumped Attila, so all was not lost. We returned to Rancho for lunch and a siesta and soon were on our way to another local site. Ernesto had recently found a Tropical Mockingbird on the grounds of a nearby hotel, so we thought we would give it a go. He had also received word of Red-breasted Blackbirds in the same area, but was unable to locate them there just a few days before. We stopped along the entrance road to the hotel and once the motor was turned off we could hear the calls of the blackbirds. Scanning the tops of the tall grass we soon had a stunning male Red-breasted Blackbird in the scope. Nearer to the gardens we added Black-bellied Whistling-Duck and Eastern Meadowlark and then Ernesto heard the mimicry calls of the Tropical Mockingbird - this time imitating a Pauraque. We all had excellent views of the mockingbird, a species that was first seen in Costa Rica just a decade or so prior but now seems to be spreading rapidly through appropriate habitat. Our next stop was at nearby CATIE, the name being an acronym for an agricultural school outside of Turrialba. After entering the campus we stopped at the large pond and immediately started seeing interesting species such as Purple Gallinule and Northern Jacana. The jacanas were close enough to marvel at their long lily-trotting toes. Boat-billed Herons could be seen in the cover of the bamboo along with more open views of several other species of herons and egrets. Ernesto called us down to a group of large trees and we were soon watching a pair of impressive Pale-billed Woodpeckers that simply put on a great show for us. Soon after we could hear a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl calling and with Ernesto's eagle eyes, or should I say diurnal owl-eyes, we had the calling bird in the scope. We continued our walk around the pond where we found a Spectacled Caiman (small crocodile type) sunning itself in the pond, watched groups of squawking Crimson-fronted Parakeets at very close range, and then a group of six Green Ibis that allowed excellent views as they foraged in the lawns of the campus. A Short-tailed Hawk made an appearance overhead and Chestnut-collared Swifts were noted high above the administration building. Making out their actual chestnut collar was virtually impossible due to the bright white sky but size, shape, and behavior were more than convincing. After scope views of White-crowned Parrots, we walked back to the opposite side of the bamboo where two adult Boat-billed Herons posed in the open - a definite highlight to a great day of fun. I would like to add that after personally spending a great deal of time at Rancho over the past 14 years, I was surprised to add not one, but two new species to my area list this day in Tropical Mockingbird and Green Ibis. Ernesto, who has worked somewhat regularly as the resident bird guide at Rancho for several years, also added two new species to his Rancho area list in Green Shrike-Vireo and Red-breasted Blackbird.
Aug 9: An early wake-up had us at breakfast before sunrise and off at dawn to the Caribbean lowlands, our destination being down to EARTH, another agricultural school with an acronymic name. Our first stop was at a river en route where from the bridge we found a very tiger-like immature Fasciated Tiger-Heron and an Amazon Kingfisher. After entering EARTH we birded the long entrance road that produced Roadside Hawk, Pale-vented Pigeon, Orange-chinned Parakeet, Gray-rumped Swift, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, and a female Blue-black Grassquit, along with many other more common species. A birding stop at the Botanical Gardens was unusually quiet, though we did manage views of Band-backed Wrens, a group of Plain-colored Tanagers, and Olive-backed Euphonias in a fruiting tree along with some very large Green Iguanas. Things would pick up however in the secondary growth along the entrance road to the primary forest. Here we found an immature male and a female Slaty-tailed Trogon joined by a Short-billed Pigeon in the same tree. Later we scoped the tiny Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher high in the canopy, had great views of a very cooperative Double-toothed Kite perched in the subcanopy, had brief views of an uncooperative Chestnut-colored Woodpecker, a lone responsive male Dot-winged Antwren, a pair of Black-cowled Orioles, and a pair of Scarlet-rumped Caciques that both showed nicely. Ernesto saw something drop toward the forest floor and soon located a very sickly White-necked Puffbird just a foot off the ground, obviously not the way one would envision seeing this normally powerful puffbird. We then continued to the open marshy area adjacent to the primary forest where we had excellent views of a responsive male Olive-crowned Yellowthroat, a pair of Yellow Tyrannulets, a perched female Blue-chested Hummingbird, and we watched a Short-tailed Hawk being chased off by a Bat Falcon. A White-throated Crake responded within eight feet of us giving his long, dry, rattling call but kept out of sight in the thick grass. Just before the primary forest we located a calling Pied Puffbird which posed for great scope views. While watching this diminutive puffbird we noticed a fruiting tree nearby. With the calls of the Purple-throated Fruitcrows getting closer we waited for them and soon we had three of these unique cotingas right in front of us in the fruiting tree. The male with his iridescent magenta throat feathers was indeed spectacular. Soon after, we located two responsive new trip birds in a male Red-throated Ant-Tanager and a pair of Blue-black Grosbeaks, while a Pale-billed Woodpecker gave an encore from the previous day. After lunch at the pavilion we took a walk through the primary forest which was typically quiet being midday. We did manage to find a Strawberry Dart Frog, a Helicopter Damselfly, many interesting butterflies, and a pair of Chestnut-backed Antbirds among other creatures like soldier Leaf-Cutter Ants and the ominous Bullet Ant. Everyone appreciated the distant calls of the Mantled Howler Monkey as our background sound during our walk. Our return trip through the secondary growth turned out to be very productive. During a stop at another fruiting tree Margery found a bird with a white belly, Ernesto re-found her bird and not only did it have a white belly but it was entirely white - a glorious male Snowy Cotinga at close range! Someone spotted another dazzler nearby and soon everyone was admiring a male Blue Dacnis. Further along the road we found a very attractive male Slaty-tailed Trogon, and our hesitance to leave the trogon paid off when a pair of Chestnut-colored Woodpeckers came in and began to feed on termites on the tree trunks. And if that wasn't enough, Ernesto pointed out a group of migrating Swallow-tailed Kites soaring above the forest. Next was a Western Long-tailed Hermit feeding on heliconias, but unfortunately only Carol saw it well before it zipped further into the forest. Back at the EARTH campus Ernesto found a Hoffmann's Two-toed Sloth sleeping in a tree, hard to make out which end was his head. We watched Mangrove Swallows flying over the lawn only to find them perched on signs 12 feet away around the next corner. Our next highlight was a perched pair of Olive-throated Parakeets before we made another failed attempt to call in a White-throated Crake. This time at least shadows were seen deep in the grass. Back along the entrance road we watched a foraging Nine-banded Armadillo and then found two Long-tailed Tyrants, an adult and an immature, neither with tails, which were quickly nicknamed the Not-so-long-tailed Long-tailed Tyrants, I don't think you will find that one in any field guide. At the same stop we had a very responsive pair of Plain Wrens, this subspecies often referred to as the "Canebrake" Wren and may yet reach full species status in the future. Just as we were leaving we were treated to a Tayra, a large member of the weasel family, crossing the road behind us. EARTH had been good, revealing many new and beautiful birds for us to enjoy. In the late afternoon we started back to Rancho adding the enormous White-collared Swifts in the hills en route. At Rancho we had another great dinner and a long list of birds to go through before bedtime.
Aug 10: Today we skipped the balcony and after breakfast headed straight to the primary forest. Along the trails we encountered a few mixed flocks. In the ravine we found a pair of Broad-billed Motmots, while an Orange-billed Sparrow made a brief appearance on the edge of the trail. Along the lower trail we found a cooperative Plain Antvireo and an uncooperative male White-collared Manakin, although hearing it was easy. While walking further up the trail I came upon a Great Tinamou that froze just 12 feet away. The people in front had great views of this large ground-dwelling bird, but just before everyone could see it the bird burst into flight. On the upper trail we found the small yet chubby White-throated Spadebill, a flycatcher that lives in the forest under story. At a known spot we waited patiently and it was Ernesto who found the little round ball of black and white that was making such a strange call - a male White-crowned Manakin on its lek. A nearby mixed flock held Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager, Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Slate-throated Redstart, and Tawny-capped Euphonia, along with many other previously seen species. A Purplish-backed Quail-Dove called repeatedly from the vine-tangled ravine but refused to come on stage. Returning on the upper trail we were treated to a cooperative pair of Chestnut-capped Brush-Finches working through the leaf litter. Further down on the Lower Trail was a pair of Rufous Motmots that seemed to be tunneling to the other side of the mountain. The hole was possibly being shared with an Armadillo - a two bedroom, one entrance home. We eventually had fine views of this spectacular bird when we relocated a perched one after it flew out of the large hole in the bank. A Green Hermit showed at the forest feeders on our way back to the lodge. On our hike we also saw many interesting non-bird creatures including a very large Tarantula protecting her egg sac and several species of amphibians including Smooth-skinned Toad, Bret the Wet Forest Toad and Clay-colored Rain Frogs. After lunch and a siesta our target bird was the Rufous-tailed Jacamar that had been calling on the nearby hilltop. We worked our way up and soon had a responsive male in the scope. We then made our way up to a nest of a Band-tailed Barbthroat that had been found a week prior. We were able to scope it from a distance, noting the odd and seemingly uncomfortable posture of the female on the nest that is typical for hermits. A walk back near the ravine below flushed a Gray-chested Dove with two fledglings, with the adult perching on a low branch for all to see. The clouds finally gave way and we headed back to the lodge a little early to get out of the rain. Birding in the rainforest is indeed challenging and we were fortunate to see as many interesting birds as we did this day. It had stopped raining, so after the checklist we went on a night walk in search of Mottled Owl - no luck on the owl but we did enjoy watching the Orange Nectar Bats come into the hummingbird feeders in the forest to satisfy their always sweet tooth. Other interesting night creatures included the large Whiptail Scorpions and Carnivorous Crickets - SLEEP TIGHT!
Aug 11: Breakfast at 5:00 AM and we were off just after sunrise on our way to Tapanti National Park, slightly higher in elevation than Rancho. En route we made a stop near a river with gallery forest surrounded by sugar cane fields. What prompted the stop was a calling Striped Cuckoo, one of only 3 species of parasitic cuckoos in the New World. Soon we were watching this fine bird through the scope as it perched in the top of tree. While there we also scoped perched White-crowned Parrots. The call of Barred Antshrikes was noted in nearby scrub and within minutes we had a pair in sight. Closer to the river a pair of responsive Dusky Antbirds was eventually seen by everyone. A stop at Cachi Dam did not produce Bat Falcon but we added Least Grebe to our list. In the hills above Cachi Dam we found a group of four soaring Swallow-tailed Kites, their grace in flight fully appreciated. Ernesto had noted the week prior that a fruiting tree in a coffee plantation located close to the park was beginning to ripen. We stopped on the edge of the road and sure enough, it was full of birds. We had seen many of them previously but it was still nice to watch Golden-olive Woodpecker, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Blue-gray, Palm, Passerini's, Golden-hooded, Bay-headed and Silver-throated Tanagers, Yellow-throated Euphonia, Grayish, Buff-throated, and Black-headed Saltators, and White-eared Ground-Sparrow. Definitely a nice selection of birds! We found one new bird for our list here in a pair of White-naped (Yellow-throated) Brush-Finches that some had scope views of before they disappeared into the cover of the thick brush. At the headquarters of the park we found some seeding mistletoe where a group of Elegant Euphonias were feeding, mostly immature males and females but still nice to see as this is a rather local species in Costa Rica. A mixed flock nearby gave us great views of Purple-crowned Fairy, White-bellied Mountain-Gem, a female Black-bellied Hummingbird, a pair of scoped Prong-billed Barbets, a responsive Red-faced Spinetail, a pair of Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrants, a cooperative Rufous Mourner, Common Bush-Tanager that is very common at this altitude, responsive Brown-capped Vireo, and dancing Slate-throated Redstart. Joe and I saw a Lineated Foliage-Gleaner, later in the day we would catch up to this skulker. We returned to the van, still parked at the headquarters, and were fortunate to spot a soaring Black Hawk-Eagle, its very large size and diagnostic shape were appreciated through the scope as it slowly soared above the river valley. We next drove to the Oropendola Trail where we birded around the picnic tables along the river. At one point we were mobbed by responsive Gray-breasted Wood-Wrens - 4 in total! A view of the river produced an American Dipper. Everyone agreed that the subspecies here is paler than the subspecies in Western US. A nice mixed flock contained Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Spotted Barbtail, Ochraceous Wren, and Tawny-capped Euphonia, along with some other more common species. We noticed some birds squawking together in the canopy, mostly euphonias, hummingbirds, and Common Bush-Tanagers. Both Ernesto and I thought it had to be a snake or an owl that the birds were mobbing. After several minutes of searching our theory was proven correct when Ernesto spotted the culprit - a fantastic Mottled Owl. We had superb scoped views of the owl, watching it turn its head completely around and then look almost straight down on us - WOW! We had been hearing the melodious calls of the Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush since we arrived, and before exiting the trail we finally were able to get some of the group on a responsive bird and then the rest of the group on a second responsive bird. We had lunch near the trailhead and then proceeded to drive up the road climbing in altitude as we went. An immature buffy phase Barred Forest-Falcon flashed across the road when we turned around near the top. On our return trip it was quiet at first but that would soon change as we encountered two nice mixed flocks. The trees seemed alive now with more Prong-billed Barbets, a male Red-headed Barbet that Joe had spotted, a group of Golden-browed Chlorophonias, sweet Tufted Flycatchers and Dark Pewees perched up, a female Barred Becard, Three-striped Warblers, and the fancy Spangle-cheeked Tanagers, among many others we had already seen. A Lineated Foliage-Gleaner began calling, and though difficult to find at first, it finally showed for everyone. With that success we left Tapanti and made our way to the town of Paraiso for an unplanned but very memorable stop. The group had agreed that they wanted to visit the coffee farm of Ernesto's father - Ernie, on our way back to Rancho this afternoon. Ernesto and Ernie gave us a great tour of the facilities complete with coffee taste testing and chocolate covered coffee beans. During the tour we saw a Plain Wren near the grinder and a beautiful White-eared Ground-Sparrow on the pile of coffee hulls. We all stocked up on coffee, the aroma in the van on the ride home was intoxicating! Thanks to Ernie and Christina Farms for their hospitality, we really enjoyed it. Our final birding stop was at Rio Birris at a small holding pond. Resident Killdeer were seen along the edge of the pond and in the seeding tall grass Ernesto pulled out a teed up male Yellow-bellied Seedeater that we promptly scoped. We arrived to Rancho around dusk in time to clean up and prepare for another great dinner.
Aug 12: You always want to end a birding tour on a high note and today we certainly did that, and then some. We had breakfast at 6:00 AM and set off with Eric to the base of Silent Mountain beyond the town of Platanillo. At one of the river crossings, Eric spotted a Torrent Tyrannulet for us and we watched it hawk for insects around the rocks in the river. Our next stop was along the road where we could look down on the forest and river valley below. We were in luck as there was a group of fruiting bushes with good bird activity. For 1 1/2 hours we watched as colorful tanagers constantly moved through the area. Highlights included male and female Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, male and female Green Honeycreepers, Emerald, the flashy Speckled, and the bold and beautiful Black-and-yellow Tanagers. A small group of distant Olive Tanagers in the valley was seen briefly. Later this same day we would have exceptional views. Other tanagers present here that we had seen previously in the trip included Tawny-capped Euphonia, Blue-gray, Palm, White-shouldered, Golden-hooded, Bay-headed, Silver-throated, Crimson-collared, and Passerini's Tanagers. Non-tanagers noted here included Purple-crowned Fairy, Paltry Tyrannulet, Slaty-capped, Yellow-margined, and Olive-striped Flycatchers, a female White-collared Manakin, Tropical Parula, Buff-throated and Black-headed Saltators, and an Olive-crowned Yellowthroat along the edge of the road. A little further along the road we found Green Thorntail and had very close views of Emerald Tanager. We went to the end of the road and began walking. It was at the second creek crossing that we had incredible luck when Ernesto spotted a very close Sunbittern lazily feeding amongst the rocks of the creek. We watched it for quite some time. When jumping from rock to rock it would open its wings just enough so that we could see the colorful sunbursts for which it is named. It finally disappeared around the bend of the creek, what a bird! It is one of the most sought after birds here in Costa Rica and for good reason. We continued up the remnant road and encountered a mixed flock. The usual suspects were there in Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Red-faced Spinetail, Russet Antshrike, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, and an assortment of tanagers. The highlight of this flock was scope views of the very uncommon and local Rufous-browed Tyrannulet, and we even saw the rufous brows! A little later we had our second Red-tailed Hawk of the tour and, as we were leaving, a Short-tailed Hawk soared over as well. We headed back to Rancho with enough time to bird the ravine. A male Spotted Antbird responded well, but only a couple of people were able to see this denizen of the under story. The Gray-chested Dove adult and her two fledglings were at the same spot as before and we had nice views. During lunch Ernesto found a male Garden Emerald feeding on the vervain flowers, another uncommon species of hummingbird at Rancho. It had already been an excellent day of birding - could it get better? After lunch and a siesta we continued birding near the lodge. We had seen 3 Pale-billed Woodpeckers on the tour but had only heard Lineated, the other large woodpecker in Costa Rica. Our luck continued with excellent views of a responsive male Lineated Woodpecker just above the upper cabins as we started our walk. Directly after this sighting we encountered our best mixed flock during our entire time on the Rancho property. We maneuvered back and forth around the ravine trying to keep up with the flock. We were able to pull out many new species and also had much better views of species we had seen poorly previously. Birds were seemingly all around us, and over the next hour or so you could hear comments from Ernesto and me like: Plain Xenops pecking on the dead twig, male Slaty Antwren working the hanging dead leaf - look at the tiny spots on the wings, female to the right of him in the open, Tawny-crowned Greenlet above that, I got a female White-ruffed Manakin in the open, notice the pale gray throat on her, Russet Antshrike in the tangle, get on this male Checker-throated Antwren, those are Lesser Greenlets in the left tangle, 3 OLIVE TANAGERS - the big dumpy green tanager with the blunt black beak, to the right of the laser pointer is an Eye-ringed Flatbill, here's a Spotted Woodcreeper at eye level, a Buff-throated Foliage-Gleaner just crossed the trail, watch for it right above the laser pointer...there he is on the open branch and...gone, there's a group of Golden-crowned Warblers down to the left, Red-throated Ant-Tanager below them, Tawny-crowned Greenlet again, anybody still need that one? Even better views of the Spotted Woodcreeper here on the trunk... The participants were keeping pace and I don't believe a single person missed any new birds in the flock. Comments coming back from them during the flock sounded like this: Got it! There's the wing spots, I got the checkers on the throat, look at that eye-ring, I can count that one now, much better than the fly-by yesterday, FINALLY got the Tawny-crowned Greenlet! The flock eventually moved on and so did we. We took a short break at the shelter by the forest hummingbird feeders and much to our delight an Orange-billed Sparrow began to bathe in a shallow pool in the trail. Most in the group had only seen glimpses of this highly attractive bird so it was very nice indeed. We then went down to the hummingbird bathing pools to see what would come in for a late afternoon splash. The first hummer noted was a male Violet Sabrewing that quickly zipped off. Both male and female Violet-crowned Woodnymphs were coming in regularly, Green Hermits came in a few times to bathe, and finally a male Snowcap, its pure white crown like a beacon of light in the darkness below. A few people headed back to the lodge to get ready for dinner, the light was very poor now but we waited to see if there would be anything else at the pools. Our persistence paid off when the chip notes of the Tawny-throated Leaftosser revealed it was close by. Ernesto spotted some movement and soon we were watching this rare forest floor dweller hopping around on the rocks below. I put a flashlight on it, which didn't disturb it at all, and we were able to catch the rich tawny throat, long thin beak, short wide tail... a great ending to a great day of birding. We had another fine dinner before filling out with pride the checklist of birds we had seen on this special day.
Aug 13: We had a final hour of birding before breakfast and our transfer to San Jose, so we met on the balcony for coffee at 5:45 AM. We were soon joined by Scarlet-rumped Caciques coming to the banana feeders below. We then birded near the manager's house in hopes of finding Violaceous Trogon and perhaps a male White-collared Manakin that had eluded some in the group. On the way there a stunning Keel-billed Toucan in perfect morning light made a fitting farewell appearance. The eucalyptus trees were in bloom and buzzing with hummingbirds, including a stunning male Black-crested Coquette complete with his long wispy crest that Ernesto scoped for everyone. The sight of watching several coquettes and thorntails chase each other around the eucalyptus trees was indeed memorable. The Violaceous Trogon cooperated and we had excellent prolonged views of a gorgeous male. Many other birds were noted but the male manakin refused to show. Eric was right on time and we said our goodbyes to the Rancho staff and were on our way to San Jose. We dropped off Judy, Tom, and Margery at the Hotel Bougainvillea - hugs all around, then proceeded to the airport with Joe and Carol for their departure flight - more hugs. We had had a wonderful time together and I want to thank all of the participants for their many contributions in making this a most successful tour. It was a pleasure guiding you and I hope we can meet up again in the future. From the group and myself, a huge thank you to Ernesto Carman who not only assisted us with his great birding skills but also his vast knowledge of amphibians, plants, tropical ecology, and all things Costa Rican - I know that all of the guests would agree that his contribution to the tour was immeasurable. To Eric Gamboa who navigated the curvy roads with precision, kept the van spotless, and who shared his love for his native Costa Rica with us - Gracias amigo por todo, siempre un placer para trabajar con usted. To the staff at Rancho - Wow! The meals, laundry service, room attendees, waiters, chefs were all top rate, muchisimas gracias! And finally, thanks to Bob Schutsky for all of his hard work in putting on this tour, always a pleasure to work with you my friend.
If you were considering joining this tour... you missed a good one. Hopefully you will join us in 2007 for some exceptional birding on the Week at Rancho Naturalista Tour with Bird Treks.
Para servirle,
COSTA RICA: A SUPERB WEEK AT RANCHO NATURALISTA LODGE
23-31 July 2005
Trip leaders: Kevin Easley and John Puschock
Trip report by John Puschock
Our tour started at the Hotel Bougainvillea, a short drive from the San Jose Airport. Located in a suburban neighborhood, you wouldn't necessarily expect to see much of interest, but as the saying goes, you can't judge a book by its cover. Some of the tour participants arrived early enough on the first day to get some birding in before dusk, but we didn't “officially” start birding until the next morning. It didn't take us long to encounter some of the tropical species that every birder dreams of seeing. We watched a Blue-crowned Motmot while Blue-and-white Swallows, Vaux's Swifts, and Crimson-fronted Parakeets flew overhead. We also found Boat-billed Flycatchers, a Plain Wren, and the ubiquitous Rufous-tailed Hummingbird during our morning walk. The hotel is famous as being one of the best places in the country to see Prevost's Ground-Sparrow, and we were focused on finding it. One made an appearance, but it was disappointingly brief. Only Kevin and one participant were able to get an identifiable look at it. As a consolation, we were able to watch a pair of its close relative, the White-eared Ground-Sparrow, through our spotting scopes for an extended period. Our walk ended with a pair of Ferruginous Pygmy-Owls and a Steely-vented Hummingbird.
After breakfast we boarded our bus for the trip to Rancho Naturalista by way of Irazu National Park. This park is located at the top of Irazu Volcano at an elevation of more than 11,000 feet. Of course, we made several stops on the way up to the park. Even from bus, we found some interesting birds--my favorite was the Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher. We stopped to check some hummingbird feeders and found Magnificent Hummingbird along with a Slaty Flowerpiercer and a dazzling male Flame-colored Tanager. It certainly lived up to its name. We got lucky at our next stop. Not only did we find a few of the expected species that are endemic to the highlands of Costa Rica and Panama such as Fiery-throated Hummingbird, Flame-throated Warbler, Yellow-winged Vireo, and Black-capped Flycatcher, but we also found a Costa Rican Pygmy-Owl. This species is never a sure thing, but two responded to the recording of its call that Kevin was playing to attract songbirds. It was difficult to see these tiny birds tucked away in the high canopy, but the many Fiery-throated Hummingbirds that were mobbing them helped to pinpoint their locations.
We finally arrived at the park early in the afternoon, and made our way to the rim of the crater. It was a clear day, so we were able to see all the way down to the lake in the main crater. The slope just below us was covered with red flowers, and some of us saw a Volcano Hummingbird feeding on them. Those who missed this bird were happy when we found another on the walk back from the crater.
We had lunch in the park and we soon learned we had to be vigilant while eating. It wasn't because of the birds though. It was the Central American Coati that was looking for a handout. Actually, it didn't want to wait for a handout. It was quite comfortable trying to help itself to our food. Several times it tried to grab some goodies from the picnic table.
After lunch, we successfully looked for Volcano Junco and Timberline Wren in the park and then began the drive to Rancho Naturalista. We made one final stop at the spot where we had previously found the Central American Pygmy-Owl and added a few more species to the trip list: Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush (joining the Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush we had seen earlier), Black-cheeked Warbler, Yellow-thighed Finch, and Large-footed Finch. We arrived at Rancho Naturalista at dusk, too late for more birding but just in time for a great meal.
We started birding before breakfast on the world-famous porch of Rancho Naturalista. The number of species that have been seen from this porch is incredible and growing all of the time. It is often considered one of the two best birding porches in the world--the other is Asa Wright in Trinidad. The lifers quickly started accumulating: White-necked Jacobin, Brown Violet-ear, Green-crowned Brilliant, Scarlet-rumped Cacique, Collared Aracari, Montezuma Oropendola, Violet-headed Hummingbird, Gray-headed Chachalaca, Passerini's Tanager. That's just a partial list of what we saw before 7 AM. After breakfast we made our first venture onto Rancho's trails. We had our first encounter with a Snowcap at the hummingbird feeders in the forest. This species, small even for a hummingbird, is the signature bird of Rancho Naturalista. Its white crown appears to glow. Because of its rather dark purple body, all you see of the bird is a brilliant white spot zooming through the forest, as the rest of it is lost against a dark background. We also found a mixed-species flock at the edge of the forest. Rufous-winged Woodpecker, Cinnamon Becard, White-winged Becard, Rufous Mourner, Golden-crowned Warbler, Bay-headed Tanager, and Green Honeycreeper were some of the memorable birds we saw during that walk.
We spent some more time exploring Rancho on the third day of the tour, but the highlight of the day was a trip to the base of Silent Mountain. We had some outstanding birding here. We began by finding a few birds here and there, notably Scarlet-thighed Dacnis and Eye-ringed Flatbill, but soon we encountered a large mixed-species flock. There were so many birds that it was tough deciding where to look. The tanagers certainly stole the show. There was Silver-throated Tanager, Speckled Tanager, Bay-headed Tanager, Emerald Tanager, Golden-hooded Tanager, Green Honeycreeper, White-shouldered Tanager, Crimson-collared Tanager, and Black-and-yellow Tanager. The illustrations in the field guides certainly do not do justice to some of these birds. Speckled and Emerald Tanagers are simply amazing to view.
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On the fourth day we took a trip to Tapanti National Park. We made several stops along the way, the first of which was not planned. Kevin spotted a Fasciated Tiger-Heron as we were crossing a bridge, so we all got out of the bus. The heron was seen by all, but quickly disappeared around a bend in the stream. Then we found some other birds that we hadn't seen previously. A Black-striped Sparrow was singing nearby, giving everyone excellent looks. Then I noticed a Violaceous Trogon fly into a tree next to the stream. We were able to scope this bird before it flew. Next, Kevin called in a pair of Barred Antshrikes and then a Bay Wren, another one of those species that looks so much better in person than you would expect based on the field guide illustrations. We made a stop for a reliable Bat Falcon that was perched right where we had expected it to be.
Tapanti National Park is located at a higher elevation than Rancho Naturalista, so we added quite a few species to the trip list. Right at the entrance we encountered a flock including Elegant Euphonia, Slate-throated Redstart, Red-faced Spinetail, and Common Bush-Tanager. We drove further into the park and found several more feeding flocks. Again, it was tough deciding where to look. Brown-capped Vireo, Black-and-yellow Silky-Flycatcher, Spangled-cheeked Tanagers, Golden-browed Chlorophonias, Ochraceous Wren, Tufted Flycatcher, and Olive-striped Flycatcher were all fighting for our attention. We also had nice looks at Black-bellied Hummingbird, Green-fronted Lancebill, and Purple-throated Mountain-Gem.
We stopped for lunch along a stream that hosted yet another Fasciated Tiger-Heron. This one was much more cooperative, and we were able to scope it for as long as we wanted. We then began hiking down a small road where we found a mixed flock that contained a female Barred Becard. It began raining, so we boarded the bus for our return trip. However, it was interrupted by several more stops whenever a bird caught our attention. One of our stops produced a Collared Trogon and then a Blue-throated Toucanet. The next stop was for a Black-faced Solitaire, but then we found Three-striped Warbler, another Collared Trogon, Red-headed Barbet, Slate-throated Redstart, Spangled-cheeked Tanager, and Yellowish Flycatcher. Everybody certainly enjoyed our day at Tapanti.
The morning of Day 5 was rainy, so the birding at CATIE, an agricultural research facility, was a little difficult, but we still managed to see some new birds. A pond near the entrance had quite a few Northern Jacanas. Several Boat-billed Herons mixed in with Black-crowned Night-Herons was also a nice find. Band-backed Wrens, a close relative to the Cactus Wren, were foraging in some trees near the pond. We also found Crimson-fronted Parakeets feeding on palm nuts.
We next traveled to the Rio Tuis Valley to search for Sunbitterns. We quickly found a pair feeding in a pasture near a stream. Just then, the light drizzle stopped, and the skies began to clear. The Sunbitterns responded by spreading their wings, apparently to dry them, revealing the complex patterns of their plumage. They remained in this position for many minutes, allowing everyone a chance to study this display through the scopes. This performance easily earned them the number one position on the top ten list. No one on the tour will forget these birds.
We made another extended trip away from Rancho Naturalista on the next day. The destination was EARTH, an agricultural school located in the Caribbean lowlands east of Rancho. Shortly before arriving at EARTH, we had to stop at some road construction. This turned out to be a lucky break. As we were waiting, one of the participants pointed out four birds flying overhead. The first thought was that they were herons or egrets, but closer inspection revealed them to be Great Green Macaws, a rare species on the Caribbean slope that can never be counted on to be seen. They were shortly followed by another group of four.
We continued to see good birds once we arrived at EARTH. Along the entrance road we found a pair of Long-tailed Tyrants near a cavity in a utility pole. We stopped to look at a Roadside Hawk and found Gray-rumped Swifts and Southern Rough-winged Swallows. As we were getting back on the bus, a flock of Mealy Parrots flew noisily overhead.
The next stop was some scrubby woodland, and sightings of new birds continued. A White-necked Puffbird was the highlight of our first stop in this habitat, but we also saw male and female Blue-black Grosbeaks and heard a Central American Pygmy-Owl. A lucky few saw a Bronzy Hermit that quickly flew away after being discovered. Further down the road, Kevin called in a pair of Yellow Tyrannulets and a male Violaceous Trogon. We began walking to an area of primary forest, but some shouting behind us interrupted the walk. Ramon, our driver, had spotted a King Vulture soaring over where we had just been, so everyone made a quick dash for this incredible bird.
The walk through the forest was fairly uneventful. The birds were mostly quiet in the heat of the day, but we did see a few. However, some of our best sightings were of other wildlife. One of the local guides accompanying us this day found a Strawberry Poison Dart Frog. The other guide spotted a Tamandua (Lesser Anteater) feeding in the canopy. We also saw Army Ants, Leaf-cutter Ants, and a lone Bullet Ant.
Upon returning from the walk, Ramon had another great bird waiting for us: Purple-throated Fruitcrow. He found a flock of 5 or 6 of this unexpected cotinga. And Ramon didn't stop there. On the drive out, he spotted a Laughing Falcon perched near the road. Everyone was able to get scope views of this bird. Back in the main part of the campus, more birds were waiting for us. Olive-backed Euphonia, Black-cowled and Orchard Orioles, Giant Cowbird, Olive-throated and Orange-chinned Parakeets, and Blue-headed Parrot were some of the species we found. One lucky participant and Kevin got a glimpse at a Blue Ground-Dove as it flew past, and Ramon's bird spotting skills came through yet again, as he found a Lineated Woodpecker in a tree we had just walked under. On the drive back to Rancho, we made a quick stop in Siquierres to see a Tropical Mockingbird that has taken up residence in the town square.
On the last full day of the tour, our group split up for the morning birding. Some went to Guayabo National Monument where they saw Band-backed Wren, Cinnamon Becard, and other species. The others spent the morning exploring more of the trails of Rancho. Those of us who stayed at Rancho were treated to views of Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Collared Trogon, Tawny-chested Flycatcher, and Thrushlike Schiffornis. We found a flock that held more new birds for us: the incredible Brown-billed Scythebill, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Buff-throated Foliage-Gleaner, Russet Antshrike, Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher, and White-collared Manakin.
In the afternoon the group reunited for some more birding at the base of Silent Mountain. As on our first visit, we found another incredible mixed-species flock, but the composition of this one was different. This flock contained several rare birds. The first one we spotted was a pair of Rufous-rumped Antwrens. Another was a Rufous-browed Tyrannulet. We also had good looks at Yellow-margined Flycatcher, Cinnamon Becard, Collared Trogon, and many other species before the flock finally disappeared up the hill.
We were able to fit in a little more birding on the final morning. Kevin found Yellow-billed Cacique and a few other birds before breakfast. We then reluctantly loaded up the bus and made the trip back to the airport for our return flights home. What a week at Rancho! Next year's tour is scheduled for 5-12 August 2006. Please join us.
COSTA RICA TRIP REPORT
by Kim Schutsky, Tour Participant
15-27 FEBRUARY 2002
Costa Rica is a small country situated just north of Panama in Central America. It is world renowned for its pristine coastlines, rainforests, cloud forests, raging white water, and biological diversity. Our group spent thirteen days in the country, at three wonderfully unique lodges.
Our birding eco-adventure began at Aguila de Osa Inn, a spectacular lodge located on the northern coast of the Osa Peninsula in the Pacific southwest of Costa Rica. The lodge is accessible only by boat, so we left San Jose by van to a local airport and took a flight to Palmar Sur in a 7-seater. This led to another van ride through banana and palm plantations to Sierpe, then finally an exhilarating 24-mile boat ride down the Rio Sierpe and into Drake Bay, where we docked at Aguila de Osa. Not only were we greeted by the accommodating lodge staff, but also by a seemingly handpicked assembly of a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, Neotropic Cormorants, and a Green Iguana all within thirty feet of our boat. The lodge itself was impeccable, with spectacular views of Drake Bay, terrific food, and knowledgeable guides.
Excursions beyond the lodge were either on foot or by boat. Daily hikes along the beach or through the forests near Aguila de Osa awarded tour participants with great views of Surfbirds, Orange-collared Manakins, White-faced Capuchins, and the striking Cherrie's Tanager. Our two day-trips by boat brought us to Corcovado National Park and Isla del Cano. Corcovado is known as the most biologically diverse area in the world. During our time there we barely sampled that biodiversity, but what a sample! Breath-taking views of the Scarlet Macaw, the endemic Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager, Mantled Howler Monkeys, and Tamandua Anteaters delighted the entire group. Those who chose to snorkel the reefs surrounding Cano saw scores of Pacific reef fishes. The boat rides to and from the national park and the island afforded us close looks at nesting Brown Boobies, Magnificent Frigatebirds, and a pair of American Oystercatchers, and entertaining interactions with a pod of Spotted Dolphins.
Our second destination was the Wilson Botanical Gardens and Las Cruces Biological Research Station near San Vito. The gardens were alive with birds - tanagers and toucans every day, plus the occasional Barred Forest-Falcon, Marbled Wood-Quail, and Beryl-crowned Hummingbird. Many “Top 10” species of the trip were seen at Las Cruces including the Turquoise Cotinga (a flawless male in the scope, our #1 bird), Speckled Tanager with its unbelievable coloration, Chestnut-mandibled Toucans which frequented fruiting Cecropia trees, majestic Swallow-tailed Kites, and numerous Blue-crowned Motmots. A diligent search of a nearby wetland yielded great looks at a female Masked Duck.
The post-tour extension led folks to the cloud forests surrounding Savegre Mountain Lodge. This lodge is located at 7200 feet in a lush and verdant valley and is run by the Chacon family. Savegre is known for its population of nesting Resplendent Quetzals and we were not disappointed. Within twenty minutes of arriving at the lodge, we had a male fly within feet of where we were standing, its tail streamers following it like the tail of a kite on a windy day. It landed in a tree near the driveway and we couldn't have asked for more impressive views.
Aside from daily views of male and female quetzals, we were also treated to point-blank looks at Scintillant and Volcano Hummingbirds, a pair of Streak-breasted Treehunters building a nest in a roadside bank, single Collared and Orange-bellied Trogons, an American Dipper in the river, and Black-faced Solitaire with its enchanting song. I highly suggest taking the trail to "La Catarata" - the waterfall. The trail is quite strenuous, but the views and sense of adventure make this a wonderful afternoon hike.
For a country that is only the size of West Virginia, Costa Rica has much to offer. The birds, the land, the people and their culture: every aspect of Costa Rica makes the adventure worthwhile.
Next year's Costa Rica Tour will take us to different areas of the country including Arenal Volcano, the Caribbean slope and lowlands, and the Guanacaste region. We are working on an itinerary for the first half of March 2003.