TOP 10 SPECIES

Top 10 lists are voted upon by the participants at the completion of each tour.

CLASSIC KENYA TOUR
1-16 November 2008

SOUTHERN & COASTAL KENYA TOUR #2
19 November - 6 December 2007
Compiled by Kevin Easley

SOUTHERN & COASTAL KENYA:
2-19 November 2007
Compiled by Kevin Easley & Steven Easley, tour leaders

RAMSAY'S KENYA SAFARI
2-19 November 2007
Tour leaders were Steven Easley & Kevin Easley
Trip report by participant Ramsay Koury

I have wanted to return to Kenya ever since going there in 2003. I decided to go again this year when I learned that my good friends Don and Robyn Henise were going. Some of you know Jonathan Heller, an excellent birder from Lebanon County, his wife Melissa, and her dad, Carroll Shearer. The other participants were Martin Blagdurn and Rosann Kovalcik, Michael Fitzpatrick and Susan Fortuna from Michigan, Steve Housefield from Indiana, and Christine Daley from the UK, all very nice traveling companions.

This was a BIRD TREKS tour with Kevin and Steven Easley as our guides. These guys are the best and made our trip very productive and enjoyable. They work well together and work very hard to be certain that all participants are having the trip of a lifetime. We found almost 550 species of birds and 68 species of mammals! I have to admit that the mammals were just as exciting for me as the birds on this trip. We had most of the expected large animals - Lion, Cheetah, Hippo, Rhino, Giraffe, Cape Buffalo, Zebra. We also had some really unexpected ones - African Hunting Dog, Pangolin, and African Wild Cat. The birds were spectacular. My particular favorites were the Saddle-billed Stork and Carmine Bee-eaters. We found 49 different raptor species, most of which we saw very well.

We visited a wide variety of habitats from sea level at the Indian Ocean, dense humid coastal forest, dry scrubby foothills, open savannas, mudflats, and some highlands. Likewise we experienced a wide variety of weather: very hot and humid at the coast, cooler around Nairobi, but mostly fairly comfortable conditions for much of the trip. We had a bit of rain a couple of times, but we always had good birding after the rain stopped.

Our accommodations were excellent, as was the food. I ate far more on the trip than I do at home. We stayed in very nice lodges, hotels, and two luxury tent camps. The people everywhere were friendly and accommodating.

We saw lots of insects, although we really didn't have a problem with biting ones. There were a few mosquitoes at the coast. I finally saw my first poisonous snake outside the US - a Black Mamba! We saw it from the van - it was in a tree. Another one was seen on the ground on a different day of the trip, although I missed it. Kevin and Steven often mentioned that Black Mambas were fairly common, so it was nice to actually see one (at a distance!).

We did a lot of traveling once in Kenya - we drove over 1500 miles, along with 2 internal flights. While we encountered some fairly good roads, some of them were relatively bad. Our drivers, Peter and Julius, were excellent. Not only did they have to negotiate many pothole infested roads, but had to watch out for crazy drivers, people walking, bicycles, huge trucks, cows, dogs, and cats. On top of that, they frequently found the wildlife that we were seeking!

This was a very rewarding, exciting trip. I would encourage any of you who have an interest in seeing Africa to consider a tour to Kenya. It is certainly the trip of a lifetime.

Day-by-Day Excitement

Nov 2-3 Jonathan, Melissa, Carroll, and I drove from my house to Washington Dulles Airport. We flew KLM to Amsterdam and then on to Nairobi. We arrived in the evening on the 3rd. Kenya is EIGHT hours AHEAD of us.

Nov 4 This morning we birded the entrance to Nairobi National Park for a couple of hours. It was a good introduction for those who hadn't been to Africa before. We then flew south in a small plane to the Masai Mara Game Reserve. We saw a number of animals before we even landed - Elephants, Zebra, Gazelles. The birding was good from the landing strip back to our lodge, Kichwa Tembo Luxury Tented Camp. The camp is located amongst a forested area along the river surrounded by savanna. Red-tailed and Blue Monkeys have free run of the camp and can often be found on your porch or roof! Warthogs are also commonly seen all along the trails and even next to the dining hall. After lunch we went into the park and found a mother and young Black Rhinoceros, which is rare in the Mara. After that we had a fair amount of rain. This was the coldest evening of the trip and I appreciated the hot water bottle provided to us for our beds!

Nov 5 We had great birding early this morning right at the camp. Fine views of Narina Trogon, several species of sunbirds (Africa's equivalent of hummingbirds), Violet-backed Starlings - they put our starlings to shame - and many other species. In the park we found our first Lions, a female and two males. They didn't seem a bit concerned by our presence. We also saw TENS of THOUSANDS of Wildebeest. Their migration would normally have been over by this time, but it was later this year. It was really great to see so many of them. I had seen relatively few on my last trip. This evening several of us went on a night drive. The highlight was seeing a Serval Cat! We also had many Hippos munching on grass, and several Thick-knees - an odd, long-legged shorebird with large eyes. An unexpected highlight was having a dead battery out in the middle of the savanna! A couple of the ladies enjoyed having to take a bathroom break with the Hippos munching a short distance away. Fortunately our drivers had a spare battery and we were quickly on our way.

Nov 6 Today we drove east through the Mara, seeing many more Lions. We also found a family of Cheetahs - a mother and three almost fully grown young. Another rarity was a Southern Ground Pangolin. This is a very odd, unusual looking animal. Steven had never seen one and was really sharp to pick it out as we drove past. It is a mammal, but almost reminds me of a dinosaur. The birds were equally good today. Some of the highlights: African Quail-Finch, Senegal Lapwing, Temminck's Courser, and Marsh Owl. Carroll found a life bird for Jonathan, a Red-capped Lark. My favorite bird of the day and the trip was a Saddle-billed Stork. It is a huge bird with a beautiful multicolored beak. We stayed at the Fig Tree Tent Camp.

Nov 7 Today we drove through the southeastern part of the Mara. We saw another Cheetah sitting still, hunting on the savanna. We found a family group of Lions - several adults and five young ones - a real crowd pleaser. We left the refuge and stopped at Sianna Springs, an area in the hills with a lot of vegetation. Here we were able to get out of the safari vans and walk around. We saw a number of birds, and a few people even got to see a Black Mamba! We then continued driving north, making many stops, the last one at Limuru Pond right before dusk. There was a nice selection of waterfowl and wading birds. We spent the night back in Nairobi.

Nov 8 We drove from Nairobi southeast to Amboselli National Park, making birding stops in the Ngong Mountains and on Magadi Road, finding many specialty birds. We came to the border with Tanzania, actually going a few hundred feet into the country. Closer to Amboselli we had our first views of Mount Kilimanjaro. I had expected there to be more snow on the top of it, but it is still an impressive sight. We saw our first Yellow Baboons today, the previous baboons were Olive Baboons, and continued seeing many Elephants, Giraffe, and Zebra. Night at Ol Tukai Lodge.

Nov 9 Amboselli is a special place. It offered great views right from our porch. You can sit there and look across the savanna seeing Elephants, Buffalo, Zebra, and many other mammals, with Mount Kilimanjaro in the background! The park had a great variety of birds: Collared Pratincole, Caspian Plover, White-winged Tern, Ruff, and Gray-crowned Crane, just to name a few. An African Wildcat was a great find! Birding around the lodge itself was good, with the very local Taveta Golden Weaver an especially nice bird. Yellow Baboons and Black-faced Vervet Monkeys were common on the grounds.

Nov 10 We drove from Amboselli to Tsavo West National Park. We made many stops along the way, with Golden Jackal a new mammal for the trip. We found some very exotic sounding birds: African Cuckoo Hawk, Common Scimitarbill, Peter's Twinspot, Crested Guineafowl, and Retz's Helmet Shrike. We had lunch at Hunter's Lodge, a nice spot with a pond where we had four species of kingfishers. Near the end of the day we came across a herd of Elephants crossing the road in front of us. One of the Elephants decided that we were too close and charged our van! Our driver kept us well in front of it, but he chased us several times before he decided we weren't a threat. We spent the night at Kiliguni Lodge.

Nov 11 We spent the day exploring Tsavo West. We had several hours of rain this morning which made birding difficult and frustrating. However we were still able to find a beautiful Golden Pipit and a Eurasian Nightjar flying in the rain. The moisture caused an eruption of termites. We saw huge numbers coming out of their burrows and filling the sky. The birds had a great time feasting on them. It was expected that bee-eaters and rollers would eat the termites, but even the raptors joined in the feast. We saw Tawny Eagles and Bateleurs (a very colorful hawk) sitting on the road, eating termites. After the rain we found a Black Mamba curled up in a tree. This very poisonous snake looked very harmless in this position. I have spent about a year of my life traveling outside of the US and this was my first poisonous snake outside the country. This evening some of us did another night drive. The highlight was a Caracal, the African version of our Lynx. We also saw a Common Genet, which looks like a cat, but isn't. We found Heuglin's Coursers, a nocturnal shorebird, and Slender-tailed Nightjar.

Nov 12 We left Tsavo, heading east. The highlight of the day, and one of the best moments of the trip, was finding a pack of at least TEN African Hunting Dogs on the road! Very few people see these animals. Kevin and Steven, with dozens of trips to Kenya between them, had only ever seen one, in Ethiopia. Even the drivers had only seen them a couple of times. The dogs were very tame and sat on the road and bank until we actually drove away from them. I got some great pictures! Lunch was at Mzima Springs where we saw numerous of Hippos. Golden-breasted Starlings were a particularly nice bird today. We arrived at Taita Salt Lick Lodge around dusk. The watering hole there attracts many animals, and the final highlight of the day was great views of a Bat-eared Fox.

Nov 13 We spent the morning looking for some very local and rare birds in the Taita Hills. There are just a few mountaintop patches of evergreen forest that harbor these rarities: Taita Thrush, Taita White-eye, and Taita Apalis. We had a local guide with us and were able to get good views of all three of these birds. The thrush was particularly cooperative, feeding right along the trail like a robin! Other good finds were a Great Sparrowhawk and a Mount Kilimanjaro Two-Horned Chameleon sitting on a wire. From here we drove toward the coast, going through the city of Mombassa. We took a short ferry ride and continued down the coast to Shimba Hills Lodge. The lodge is built around a watering hole, with every room having a view of the lake. An African Fish-Eagle liked to perch across from the dining area.

Nov 14 We spent the day in the Shimba Hills area. The main mammal we were looking for was the attractive Sable Antelope. We saw a number of these with several spectacular males being the highlight. We saw many hornbills here - Trumpeter and Silvery-cheeked were especially interesting. Western Black and White Colobus Monkeys were around (and on) the lodge. Their heads are really bizarre - a shrunken head appearance. A Wood Owl, somewhat similar to our Barred Owl, was easily found roosting during the day. The highlight of the afternoon was going to a nest of African Crowned Eagles. One of the 2 or 3 largest eagles in the world, these birds are really impressive. We watched a perched one for some time, then its mate flew in and we saw them mating. This evening at the lodge they put bananas out for the Lesser Galago (Bushbaby), a nocturnal mammal sort of like a raccoon, but with large eyes and a very long tail. We saw it at very close range as it came in for the bananas.

Nov 15 Today we drove from Shimba Hills south along the coast. One of the highlights of the trip was seeing many Northern Carmine Bee-eaters. A very colorful pinkish-red bird with a long tail, they were easy to see and photograph perched on wires along the road. A stop at a pond produced a nice flock of African Open-billed Storks and a few African Spoonbills. We retraced our steps north, going back across the ferry and through Mombassa. Continuing north along the coast we stopped at Mida Creek, where low tide attracts many shorebirds. We arrived at low tide and had a couple of hours of great shorebirding. An excellent bird here is the stunning Crab-Plover, a large, mostly white shorebird with a large beak. Other goodies: Greater and Lesser Sand-plovers, Terek Sandpipers, Curlew Sandpipers, Little Stint, Common Greenshank, Eurasian Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, Black-bellied Plover, and Common Ringed Plover. This was a very impressive selection of shorebirds - even Robyn had to admit she enjoyed shorebirding here! We spent the night at the Ocean Sports Resort overlooking the Indian Ocean. It was a very warm and humid spot, but a scenic one as well, with a nice breeze coming off the ocean.

Nov 16 This morning we went north to the mouth of the Sabaki River. Steven had warned us this was going to be a very hot place, that we should dress accordingly and bring lots of water. When we arrived it was cloudy and actually comfortable. We found a number of birds in the scrubby area close to shore - sunbirds, Scaly Babbler, Slender-tailed Nightjar. As we began walking out it started to rain. It was just light rain at first and I thought I was pretty smart to be one of the few with an umbrella. The rain got harder and it became more difficult to stay dry. I secured my optics, wallet, and passport in a plastic bag. Soon the rain was a very heavy, steady downpour and my umbrella was only keeping my backpack dry! At this point, most normal people would have gone back to the vehicles, but being hardcore birders, and far from normal, we continued walking out to the shore. The rain finally did end after an hour or so; of course we were completely soaked. We had some nice birds - Greater and Lesser Crested Terns, Heuglin's Gull, Pink-backed Pelican, Dimorphic Egret, Greater and Lesser Flamingoes. Steven picked out a couple of Broad-billed Sandpipers, a very good bird in Kenya, and one I had really wanted to see. We went back to the hotel and changed - in the hot tropical sun all of my clothing dried by evening! This afternoon we went north to Malinidi to look for the very local Malindi Pipit. We found a cooperative individual on the ground in front of us. Carroll and Melissa went snorkeling today and saw Dolphins, an octopus, and a nice variety of fish.

Nov 17 We spent all day birding the Arabuko-Sokoke Forest. This lowland coastal forest has very dense vegetation and is a warm, humid place. It harbors a number of local and uncommon species that we spent all day and the next morning searching for. This was by far the most difficult and frustrating birding of the trip. The birds were shy, and not very responsive to the tapes Steven and Kevin used. The birds we saw were: Mombasa Woodpecker, African Blue-mantled Flycatcher, Scaly Babbler, Rufous-tailed Antthrush, East Coast Akalat, Little Yellow Flycatcher, Eastern Nicator, Forest Batis, Pale Batis, and Plain-backed and Amani Sunbirds. We had a local guide, Willie, along with us, and he helped us find the rare and local Sokoke Pipit. Unlike most pipits, which are open country birds, this one likes the deep forest. Late this afternoon we drove far into the forest to search for the Sokoke Scops-Owl. This small, very local owl is estimated to have a population of 1000 pairs. Willie knew the area where a rufous morph was roosting. We stopped on a road and he disappeared into the forest. He appeared sometime later saying he had found it! We bushwhacked our way through the dense growth and had great looks at this neat owl. On the way back through the forest we found a pair of Fiery-necked Nightjars along the road. One sat perched and allowed us to walk right up to it. An intriguing mammal was several Four-toed Elephant Shrews seen in the road. A nice ending to a fine day.

Nov 18 We spent our last morning back in the forest. It was again frustrating birding, but we managed glimpses of one of our target birds - the Four-colored Bush-Shrike. A perched Southern Banded Snake Eagle along the road was very cooperative. We stopped at a pond to look for African Pygmy Goose, but no luck. An Allen's Gallinule was a nice consolation prize. We then went to Malindi and flew back to Nairobi. After a farewell dinner we flew to Amsterdam late that evening and eventually back to the US. A word about our flights - this was my first experience with KLM airlines and I was very happy with our flights. Everything went smoothly, they actually feed you on the plane, and on some of their planes you have your own computer screen to watch movies and play games. It certainly made the flight go faster.

CLASSIC KENYA TOUR:
1-16 November 2006

SOUTHERN & COASTAL KENYA TOUR:
2-19 November 2005

On our first day we departed from Wilson Airport in Nairobi for a short one-hour flight to the famous Masai Mara Game Reserve in southwestern Kenya. Several bird highlights seen on the day included Rufous-bellied Heron, Black Stork, Black-breasted & Brown Snake-Eagles, African Marsh Harrier, Wahlberg's Eagle, Martial Eagle, Long-crested Eagle, Secretary Bird, Grey Kestrel, Scaly Francolin, Black- bellied & Northern White-bellied Bustards, Temminck's Courser, Black-winged Lapwing, Blue-spotted Wood-Dove, Fischer's & Yellow-collared Lovebirds, White-browed Coucal, Malachite Kingfisher, Lilac- breasted Roller, Abyssinian Scimitar-bill, Southern Ground Hornbill, Usambiro Barbet, Grey Woodpecker, Red-capped Lark, Black Saw-wing, Red-faced, Singing, Winding, & Stout Cisticolas, Moustached Grass- Warbler, Olive-tree Warbler, Dark-capped Yellow Warbler, Silverbird, Sooty Chat, Variable Sunbird, Montane White-eye, Red-back Shrike, Grey-backed Fiscal, Ruppell's, & Greater Blue-eared Glossy-Starlings, Violet-backed, Superb &, Hildebrandt's Starlings, Red-billed & Yellow-billed Oxpeckers, Swahili Sparrow, Speckle-fronted Weaver, Speke's Weaver, White-winged Widowbird, Purple Grenadier, Village Indigobird, Pin-tailed Whydah, and Yellow-fronted Canary.

Our second day within the reserve was spent birding the Sabaringo Valley and surrounding areas. Exciting species noted were Common Ostrich, Woolly-necked Stork, Sacred Ibis, Bat Hawk, Western Banded Snake-Eagle, Bateleur, African Harrier-Hawk, Ovampo Sparrowhawk (rare in Kenya), Common & Augur Buzzards, Steppe & Tawny Eagles, Lesser Kestrel, Red-necked Francolin, African Green Pigeon, Meyer's Parrot, Schalow's & Ross's Turacos, White-rumped Swift, Speckled Mousebird, Narina Trogon, Woodland & Striped Kingfishers, Cinnamon-chested & Little Bee-eaters, Common Scimitar-bill, Black-and-white- casqued Hornbill, Grey-throated, Spot-flanked, & Double-toothed Barbets, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Green- backed & Cardinal Woodpeckers, Flappet Lark, Mosque & Red-rumped Swallows, Common House Martin, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Long-billed & Plain-backed Pipits, Slender-billed & Cabanis's Greenbuls, Red- faced, Trilling, Rattling, Tabora, & Pectoral-patch Cisticolas, Black-necked Cisticola (formerly presumed extirpated, now considered very rare in Kenya), Yellow-breasted Apalis, Pale Flycatcher, Northern Black- Flycatcher, Familiar Chat, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, African Blue Flycatcher, African Paradise-Flycatcher, White-bellied Tit, Amethyst, Scarlet-chested, Purple-banded, & Collared Sunbirds, African Yellow White- eye, Black-backed Puffback, Holub's Golden-Weaver, Yellow Bishop, Grosbeak Weaver, and Brimstone Canary.

On our last full day in the Mara we made our way to the southeastern corner of the reserve. Exciting species encountered en route were Yellow-billed & Marabou Storks, Egyptian & Spur-winged Geese, Black- shouldered Kite, Hooded, White-backed, & Lappet-faced Vultures, Ruppell's Griffon Vulture, Montagu's Harrier, Lizard Buzzard, Grey Crowned-Crane, Black Crake, African Jacana, Spur-winged Plover, Wattled Lapwing, Three-banded Plover, Common & Wood Sandpipers, Red-eyed & Ring-necked Doves, Emerald- spotted Wood-Dove, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Levaillant's & Dederic Cuckoos, African Scops-Owl, Grey- headed Kingfisher, African Grey & Crowned Hornbills, White-headed Barbet, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Rufous-naped Lark, Plain, Rock, & Banded Martins, Rufous-chested Swallow, White-headed Saw-wing, African Pied & Yellow Wagtails, Rosy-throated Longclaw, Red-throated Pipit, Little Rock-Thrush, Rock- loving Cisticola, Green-capped Eremomela, Red-faced Crombec, Yellow-bellied Hyliota, Blackcap, White- browed Robin-Chat, Northern & Isabelline Wheatears, Chin-spot Batis, Arrow-marked Babbler, Red-tailed Shrike, Northern White-crowned Shrike, Black-crowned Tchagra, Slate-colored Boubou, Chestnut Sparrow, Yellow-spotted Petronia, Grey-capped Social-Weaver, and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting.

We made several stops on our way back to Nairobi that produced some very unique species. Just a few of the many highlights were Little Grebe, Long-tailed Cormorant, Grey & Black-headed Herons, Great & Intermediate Egrets, Glossy Ibis, White-faced Whistling-Duck, Yellow-billed, White-backed, & Maccoa Ducks, Red-billed & Hottentot Teals, Garganey, Northern Shoveler, Southern Pochard, White-headed Vulture, Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Greater Kestrel, Coqui Francolin, Common Moorhen, Red-knobbed Coot, Kori Bustard, Black-winged Stilt, Blacksmith Plover, Ruff, Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, Rufous-crowned Roller, African Hoopoe, Von der Decken's Hornbill, Greater Honeyguide, Croaking Cisticola, Grey-capped Warbler, Pale Wren-Warbler, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, African Grey Flycatcher, Red-backed Scrub-Robin, African Stonechat, Schalow's & Capped Wheatears, Northern Anteater-Chat, Black-lored Babbler, African Penduline-Tit (buff-bellied race), Mariqua Sunbird, African Black-headed Oriole, Magpie Shrike, Brown- crowned Tchagra, Tropical Boubou, Brubru, Grey-headed Bush-Shrike, Cape Rook, Wattled Starling, Village & Red-headed Weavers, Red-billed Quelea, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, White- bellied Canary, and the gorgeous African Golden-breasted Bunting.

Mammals noted during our stay within the Masai Mara Game Reserve were Olive Baboon, Blue Monkey, Red-tailed Monkey, Black-faced Vervet Monkey, Scrub Hare, Yellow-winged Bat, Black-backed Jackal, Banded Mongoose, Spotted Hyena, Lion, Cheetah, Bush Hyrax, African Savannah Elephant, Burchell's (Common) Zebra, Hippopotamus, Common Warthog, Masai Giraffe, Cape Buffalo, Masai Bushbuck, Eland, Steinbok, Oribi, Bush Duiker, Kirk's Dikdik, Bohor Reedbuck, Defassa Waterbuck, Thomson's & Grant's Gazelles, Impala, Topi, Coke's Hartebeest, and White-bearded Gnu (Wildebeest). Other interesting creatures of note during our first four days in Kenya were Tropical House Gecko, Striped & Variable Skinks, Blue- headed Tree Agama, Mwanza Flat-headed Agama, Battersby's Green-Snake, and Square-marked Toad.

Some of the birds seen on the lovely Maxwell Adventist Academy grounds and the nearby Ngong Escarpment included Dusky Turtle Dove, Klaas's Cuckoo, Barn Owl, Red-fronted Barbet, Nairobi Pipit, Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush, Mountain (Olive) Thrush, Lyne's Cisticola, Buff-bellied Warbler, Banded & Brown Parisomas, White-eyed Slaty-Flycatcher, Southern Black-Flycatcher, Cape & Ruppell's Robin-Chats, Spotted Morning-Thrush, Northern Pied-Babbler, Bronze Sunbird, Abyssinian White-eye, Red-winged Starling, Kenya Rufous-Sparrow, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Baglafecht & Spectacled Weavers, Crimson-rumped Waxbill, Western (African) Citril, and Streaky Seedeater.

Later we made our way further south to the famous Amboseli Game Reserve. Species seen en route were Western Marsh Harrier, Eastern Chanting-Goshawk, Pygmy Falcon, Eurasian Kestrel, Crested & Yellow- necked Francolins, Buff-crested Bustard, Spotted Thick-knee, Two-banded Courser, African Mourning Dove, Namaqua Dove, African Orange-bellied Parrot, White-bellied Go-away-bird, White-headed Mousebird, Northern Red-billed Hornbill, Black-throated, D'arnaud's & Red-and-yellow Barbets, Foxy (Fawn-colored) & Pink-breasted Larks, African Bare-eyed Thrush, Ashy & Tiny Cisticolas, Grey Wren- Warbler, White-winged Scrub-Robin, Pied Wheatear, Scaly Chatterer, Red-throated Tit, Beautiful Sunbird, Long-tailed & Taita Fiscals, Rosy-patched Bush-Shrike, Fischer's Starling, White-headed Buffalo-Weaver, Lesser Masked-Weaver, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu, Grey-headed Silverbill, and the extremely local Southern Grosbeak-Canary.

Several avian treasures found while exploring the Amboseli Game Reserve were Great White Pelican, Goliath Heron, African Spoonbill, African Fish Eagle, Lanner Falcon, Hartlaub's Bustard, Water Thick-knee, Collared Pratincole, Long-toed Lapwing, Common Ringed Plover, Kittlitz's Plover, Common Snipe, Gull-billed & White-winged Terns, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Pied Kingfisher, Fischer's Sparrow-Lark, Pangani Longclaw, Desert Cisticola, Common Nightingale, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver, Taveta Golden-Weaver, and the diminutive Red-billed Firefinch. On several occasions we had spectacular views of Mount Kilamanjaro, which towers more than 19,000 feet over the flat plains below.

Mammals noted in Amboseli were Yellow Baboon, Black-faced Vervet Monkeys, Scrub Hare, Black- backed Jackal, Dwarf Mongoose, Spotted Hyena, Lion, African Savannah Elephant, Burchell's (Common) Zebra, Hippopotamus, Common Warthog, Masai Giraffe, Cape Buffalo, Kirk's Dikdik, Bohor Reedbuck, Common Waterbuck, Thomson's & Grant's Gazelles, Impala, Coke's Hartebeest, and White-bearded Gnu (Wildebeest). Speke's Sand-Lizard, Rufous-beaked Snake, and Panther Toad were also added to our checklists.

Several nice species seen en route to the massive Tsavo West National Park included Pink-backed Pelican, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Abdim's Stork, Lesser Flamingo, Shikra, Black-faced Sandgrouse, Red- chested Cuckoo, Green Coucal (Yellowbill), Verreaux's Eagle-Owl, Giant Kingfisher, European Roller, Nubian Woodpecker, Northern Brownbul, Eastern Nicator, Lesser Swamp-Warbler, Eastern Olivaceous & Upcher's Warblers, Northern & Somali Crombecs, Willow Warbler, Ashy Flycatcher, Thrush Nightingale (Sprosser), Pygmy Batis, Blue-mantled Crested-Flycatcher, Kenya Violet-backed, Black-bellied, & Hunter's Sunbirds, Retz's & White Helmet-Shrikes, Parrot-billed Sparrow, African Golden-Weaver, Black-necked & Chestnut Weavers, African (Vitelline) Masked-Weaver, Green-winged Pytilia, and the local Jameson's Firefinch.

While birding in the dry bush country of Tsavo we were able to locate Hamerkop, Grasshopper Buzzard, Verreaux's Eagle, Amur Falcon, Eurasian Hobby, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Slender-tailed Nightjar, Mottled & African Black Swifts, Blue-naped Mousebird, Green Wood-hoopoe, Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill, Dodson's Bulbul, Brown-tailed Apalis, Greater (Common) Whitethroat, White-throated Robin (Irania), Somali Tit, Mouse-colored Penduline-Tit, Tsavo Sunbird, Three-streaked Tchagra, Golden-breasted Starling, Black-capped Social-Weaver, Reichenow's (Kenya Yellow-rumped) Seedeater, and the brilliant Somali Golden-breasted Bunting.

En route to the Taita Salt Lick Lodge we were able to track down several more of our target species including Pallid Harrier, Gabar Goshawk, African Hawk-Eagle, Martial Eagle (at a distance of about 20 feet with a Scrub Hare in his talons!), Common Cuckoo, Blue-cheeked & European Bee-eaters, Eurasian Hoopoe, Red-winged Lark, Pale Prinia (extremely local in Tsavo West), Red-fronted Warbler, Barred Warbler, Rufous- tailed Scrub-Robin (Rufous Bush-Chat), Sulphur-breasted Bush-Shrike, and the localized Pringle's Puffback.

Mammals noted within Tsavo West National Park were Yellow Baboon, Blue Syke's Monkey, Black-faced Vervet Monkey, Scrub Hare, Unstriped Ground Squirrel, Wahlberg's Epauletted Fruit Bat, Black-backed Jackal, Striped Hyena, African Civet Cat, Lion, Bush Hyrax, African Savannah Elephant (stained red from the soil), Burchell's (Common) Zebra, Hippopotamus, Common Warthog, Masai Giraffe, Cape Buffalo, Masai Bushbuck, the elegant Lesser Kudu, Klipspringer, Kirk's Dikdik, Bohor Reedbuck, Common Waterbuck, Grant's Gazelle, Impala, Coke's Hartebeest, and the magnificent Fringe-eared Oryx. White-throated Savannah Monitor, Red-headed Rock Agama, and Southern Long-tailed Lizard were just a few of the notable reptiles seen.

After an early start we ascended into the beautiful Taita Hills. Specialties found in the morning session were African Crowned Eagle (the most powerful raptor in Africa), Hartlaub's Turaco, African Wood-Owl (on a day roost), Tree Pipit, Stripe-faced & Placid Greenbuls, Taita Thrush (a rare endemic), Taita Apalis, Yellow- throated Woodland-Warbler, African Dusky Flycatcher, White-starred Robin, Taita White-eye, and the tiny Yellow-bellied Waxbill. We also found a tiny Mount Kilamanjaro Two-horned Chameleon, on a telephone wire of all places.

Later en route to the Shimba Hills National Reserve we found Booted Eagle, Sooty Gull, House Crow, African Silverbill and the immaculate Eastern Paradise-Whydah. Several of the specialties found within the Shimba Hills National Reserve included Palm-nut Vulture, Black Goshawk (Great Sparrowhawk), Crested Guineafowl, Tambourine Dove, Fischer's Turaco, Mottled Spinetail, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, White-throated Bee-eater, Trumpeter & Silvery-cheeked Hornbills, Brown- breasted, White-eared & Green Barbets, Black Cuckoo-Shrike, Tiny & Sombre Greenbuls, Terrestrial Brownbul, Siffling Cisticola, Black-headed Apalis, Green-backed Camaroptera, Forest Batis, Eastern Olive- Sunbird, Green-headed Oriole, Dark-backed Weaver, and the stunning Brown-backed Mannikin.

Mammals found in the picturesque Shimba Hills included Yellow Baboon, Lesser Galago, Red-bellied Coast Squirrel, Common Genet, Common Warthog, Masai Giraffe, Cape Buffalo, the majestic Sable Antelope, and Red Duiker The shy Suni White-headed Dwarf Gecko and a huge 6-foot Nile Monitor were reptilian notables.

After an early departure we drove south to the small town of Shimoni. En route we were able to find Little Sparrowhawk, Coastal Cisticola, Collared Palm-Thrush, Golden Palm-Weaver, Black-winged Bishop, and Fan-tailed Widowbird. The afternoon was spent driving north to the coastal city of Watamu. Just a few of the many specialties located in the famous Arabuko-Sokoke Forest were Southern Banded Snake-Eagle, Sokoke Scops-Owl, Fiery-necked Nightjar, Bohm's Spinetail, Common Swift, Eastern Green-Tinkerbird, Lesser Honeyguide, Mombasa Woodpecker, Yellow-bellied & Fischer's Greenbuls, Red-tailed Ant-Thrush, East Coast Akalat (from a distance of about 10 feet), Red-capped Robin-Chat, Pale Batis, Little Yellow Flycatcher, Scaly Babbler, Plain-backed & Amani Sunbirds, African Golden Oriole, Chestnut-fronted Helmet- Shrike, Black-bellied Glossy-Starling, and an amazingly tame pair of Green-backed Twinspots.

Four-toed & Golden-rumped Elephant Shrews were both found in the Arabuko-Sokoke woodlands, but unfortunately were not seen by all of the participants. Both are very alert and dive into thicker vegetation when approached. A beautiful Bell's Hinged Tortoise was found feeding on a Giant Millipede during one of our forest walks.

New species located on the Mida Creek mud flats were Greater Flamingo, Dimorphic Egret, Crab Plover (nearly 200 individuals), Grey Plover, Lesser & Greater Sand-Plovers, Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, Terek Sandpiper, Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling and Curlew Sandpiper.

On our last morning in Kenya we visited the Sabaki Estuary near the popular tourist town of Malindi. New additions to our already impressive bird list included Osprey, Pied Avocet, White-fronted Plover, Bar- tailed Godwit, Broad-billed Sandpiper (local and uncommon migrant), Lesser Black-backed & Heuglin's Gulls, Lesser & Greater Crested-Terns, Caspian, Common, & Saunder's Terns, Bank Swallow (Sand Martin), Ethiopian Swallow, and the brightly colored Zanzibar Red Bishop. Just before our short flight back to Nairobi, we were able to track down the extremely localized Malindi Pipit, a great way to end the tour!

CLASSIC KENYA:
16 Nov-1 Dec 2004

SOUTHERN & COASTAL KENYA TOUR:
30 October-16 November 2004

SOUTHERN & COASTAL KENYA
30 October - 16 November 2004
Trip Report by Steven Easley, Tour Leader

Waking up in Kenya for the first time is certainly an exciting experience, no matter where you are located. Several people were up at first light to spot their first life birds around the hotel grounds in Nairobi. Hadada Ibis, Yellow-billed Kite, Little Swift, Pied Crow, Dark-capped Bulbul, Mountain (Olive) Thrush, Bronze Sunbird, Baglafecht Weaver, and Streaky Seedeater were just a few of the more common birds encountered.

After a nice buffet breakfast, we took a short drive to Wilson Airport. Even before our flight to the world famous Masai Mara Game Reserve, we were able to find a couple more new species in the parking area. Black-headed Heron, Sacred Ibis, Barn Swallow, and Village Indigobird were all logged before our departure.

The plane ride to the Masai Mara or “Spotted Land” is spectacular to say the least. Within minutes of taking off, we got our first views of the famous Ngong Hills and the Great Rift Valley. As we descended from the clouds we began locating our first big game of the tour. Several mammals seen from the air included Burchell’s (Common) Zebra, Cape Buffalo, Masai Giraffe, Eland, and large herds of Common Wildebeests (White-bearded Gnu). Our driver Peter met us at the airstrip and, after everyone got acquainted, we were off to explore this awesome reserve.

Raptors seemed to be everywhere on our first outing! Day 1 alone produced 18 different species of birds of prey. White-headed & Hooded Vultures, Western Banded, Brown, & Black-chested Snake-Eagles, Bateleur, Tawny, Steppe, and Wahlberg’s Eagles, and the massive Martial Eagle were all noted. More avian treats on our first afternoon in Kenya were Common Ostrich, Hamerkop, Red-necked Spurfowl (Red- necked Francolin), Common (Small) Buttonquail, Grey Crowned-Crane, Black-bellied Bustard, Wattled & Crowned Lapwings, Little & Cinnamon-chested Bee-eaters, Lilac- breasted Roller, Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill, the massive Southern Ground- Hornbill, White-headed Saw-wing, Stout & Pectoral-patch Cisticolas, Sooty Chat, African Blue-Flycatcher, and the colorful Purple Grenadier. Our first up-close mammals were Olive Baboon, Black-faced Vervet Monkey, Banded Mongoose, African Savanna Elephant, Common Warthog, Masai Bushbuck, Eland, Defassa Waterbuck, Thomson’s Gazelle, Impala, Coke’s Hartebeest, and Topi.

Our second day was spent searching for the more localized specialties of the northwest Masai Mara. While visiting several very different habitat zones, most of our target birds were located such as Rufous-bellied Heron, Ovampo Sparrowhawk (rare in Kenya), Lesser Spotted-Eagle, Coqui Francolin, Temminck’s Courser, Senegal Lapwing (a difficult nomadic species), Black-winged Lapwing, the stunning Ross’s Turaco, Rufous- crowned Roller, Abyssinian Scimitar-bill, Grey-throated & Usambiro Barbets, Rufous- throated Wryneck, Banded Martin, Rufous-chested Swallow, Trilling Cisticola, African Moustached-Warbler, Green-capped Eremomela, Yellow-bellied Hyliota, Silverbird, Whinchat, Red-throated Tit, Mariqua (Marico) Sunbird, African Yellow White-eye, Eurasian Golden-Oriole, Hildebrandt’s & Violet-backed Starlings, Holub’s Golden- Weaver, and the diminutive African Quailfinch. Other nice birds seen that day were Black Stork, Comb (Knob-billed) Duck, Pallid & Montagu’s Harriers, Long-crested Eagle, Secretary Bird, Spur-winged Plover, Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove, African Green- Pigeon, Speckled Mousebird, European Bee-eater, Yellow-rumped & Red-fronted Tinkerbirds, Red-fronted Barbet, Lesser Honeyguide, Black Saw-wing, Plain-backed Pipit, White-eyed Slaty-Flycatcher, Pale & Ashy Flycatchers, White-browed Robin-Chat, White-browed Scrub-Robin, Chinspot Batis, African Paradise-Flycatcher, Amethyst Sunbird, Black-backed Puffback, Sulphur-breasted Bush-Shrike, Superb Starling, Speckle-fronted Weaver, Western Citril, and Yellow-fronted Canary.

Mammal life was also prolific and we were able to see Blue (Gentle) & Red-tailed Monkeys, Olive Baboon, Scrub Hare, Lion, African Savanna Elephant, Eland, Bohor Reedbuck, and the secretive Bush Duiker.

After some final birding on our third day in the northwest section of the Masai Mara, we made our way across the vast grasslands to our next hotel in the southeast of the reserve. What an exciting day this would turn out to be! Marabou Stork, African White- backed & Egyptian Vultures, Rueppell’s Griffon, African Harrier-Hawk, Dark Chanting- Goshawk, Common & Augur Buzzards, Grey, Common & Lesser Kestrels, Northern White-bellied Bustard, Black-winged Stilt, Caspian Plover (a flock that may have numbered more than 500+), Common Scimitar-bill, White-headed Barbet, Rufous-naped & Flappet Larks, African Pied & Yellow Wagtails, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Long- billed Pipit, Slender-billed Greenbul, Zitting, Red-faced, Tabora (Long-tailed), Rattling, & Rock-loving Cisticolas, Northern Black-Flycatcher, Northern, Isabelline, & Capped Wheatears, Northern Anteater-Chat, Grey-backed & Common Fiscals, Black-crowned & Brown-crowned Tchagras, Rueppell’s & Greater Blue-eared Glossy-Starlings, Red-billed & Yellow-billed Oxpeckers, Kenya Rufous-Sparrow, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Red- billed Firefinch, Brimstone Canary, and the brilliant Golden-breasted Bunting.

A vast array of mammals was observed on this unique travel day, including several of our most wanted target species. Black-backed Jackal, Egyptian Mongoose, Spotted Hyena, Lion, Cheetah (a total of five on the day, including a very young cub), Bush Hyrax, African Savanna Elephant, Burchell’s Zebra, Black Rhino (rare in the Mara), Hippopotamus, Common Warthog, Masai Giraffe, Cape Buffalo, Eland, Steenbok, Bohor Reedbuck, Defassa Waterbuck, Thomson’s & Grant’s Gazelles, Impala, Coke’s Hartebeest, Topi, and large numbers of Common Wildebeests.

On day four we explored an area called the Mara Triangle. We soon found several new birds including Pygmy Falcon, Meyer’s (Brown) Parrot, Bare-faced Go-Away-Bird, Pearl-spotted Owlet, African Scops-Owl (on its day roost), European Roller, Von der Decken’s & African Grey Hornbills, Nubian Woodpecker, Foxy (Fawn-colored) Lark, Black Cuckoo-Shrike, Rufous-tailed (European) Rock-Thrush, Croaking Cisticola, Grey- capped Warbler, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Willow Warbler, Arrow-marked Babbler, White-bellied Tit, African Penduline-Tit, African Black-headed Oriole, Magpie Shrike (extremely local in Kenya), Tropical Boubou, Swahili Sparrow, Spectacled & Village Weavers, Red-headed Weaver (nest building), Grosbeak Weaver, Red-cheeked Cordon- bleu, Pin-tailed Whydah, and Reichenow’s (Kenya Yellow-rumped) Seedeater. Our time in the Masai Mara had reluctantly come to an end and we departed for the cooler climate of the Central Kenyan Highlands. En route to our lodging near Nairobi we added several exciting species to our fast growing bird list. Little Grebe, Great White Pelican, Long- tailed Cormorant, African Spoonbill, Yellow-billed Duck, Hottentot Teal, Garganey, Northern Shoveler, Southern Pochard, Maccoa Duck (local in Kenya), Greater (White- eyed) Kestrel, Common Moorhen, Red-knobbed Coot, Kori Bustard, Blacksmith Plover, Marsh, Green, & Common Sandpipers, Little Stint, White-fronted Bee-eater, Common House & Plain Martins, and Cape Rook (Cape Crow).

Early morning we birded the Maxwell Adventist Academy campus. Many localized species were found on this well maintained compound, including Black Goshawk (Great Sparrowhawk), Spotted Thick-knee, White-browed Coucal, White-rumped Swift, African Grey-headed Woodpecker, Lesser Striped-Swallow, Sand & Rock Martins, African (Grassland) Pipit, Singing Cisticola, Dark-capped (African) Yellow-Warbler, Buff- bellied Warbler, Brown Parisoma (Brown Warbler), Southern Black-Flycatcher, Cape Robin-Chat, Northern Pied-Babbler, Scarlet-chested, Variable, & Beautiful Sunbirds, Speke’s Weaver, Red-collared Widowbird, and a small flock of Grey-headed Silverbills. After breakfast we drove south toward the Tanzanian border and Amboseli National Park. Several birds we were able to find in the dry scrub habitat en route were Black Kite, Eastern Chanting-Goshawk, Gabar Goshawk (both light and dark color morphs), Crested & Shelley’s Francolins, Buff-crested Bustard, Two-banded (Double-banded) Courser, African Mourning Dove, White-headed & Blue-naped Mousebirds, Grey- headed Kingfisher, Black-throated Barbet, Short-tailed Lark, Tiny Cisticola, Grey Wren- Warbler, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Barred Warbler, Banded Parisoma (Banded Warbler), Pied Wheatear, Rufous Chatterer, Taita & Long-tailed Fiscals, Brubru, Slate- colored Boubou, Rosy-patched Bush-Shrike, Fischer’s Starling, Chestnut Sparrow, White-headed Buffalo-Weaver, Grey-capped Social-Weaver, Black-necked Weaver, White-winged Widowbird, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu, and White-bellied Canary.

Lying in the shadows of Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s tallest mountain, Amboseli National Park is yet another premier wildlife location in Kenya. We spent two fantastic days exploring what this great park has to offer. Some of the many bird species encountered were Pink-backed Pelican, Goliath, Squacco, & Grey Herons, Intermediate, Little, & Great Egrets, African Openbill, Saddle-billed Stork, Glossy Ibis, White-faced Whistling-Duck, White-backed Duck (very local in Kenya), Red-billed Teal, African Fish-Eagle, Black Crake, African Jacana, Greater Painted-Snipe, Water Thick-knee, Hartlaub’s Bustard, Collared Pratincole, Long-toed Lapwing, Kittlitz’s Plover, Ruff, Whiskered Tern, Chestnut-bellied & Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, Speckled Pigeon, Slender-tailed Nightjar, African Pygmy & Malachite Kingfishers, African Hoopoe, Fischer’s Sparrow-Lark, Red-capped Lark, Wire-tailed Swallow, Rosy-breasted (Rosy- throated) Longclaw, Winding & Ashy Cisticolas, Common Nightingale, Taveta Golden- Weaver, and Crimson-rumped Waxbill. Mammals are numerous in the park as well: Yellow Baboon, Black-faced Vervet Monkey, Unstriped Ground Squirrel, Slender & Egyptian Mongoose, Spotted Hyena, Lion, African Savanna Elephants (at times more than 100 individuals could be counted from a single location), Burchell’s Zebra, Hippopotamus, Common Warthog, Masai Giraffe, Cape Buffalo, Common Waterbuck, Gerenuk, Impala, and Common Wildebeest. We were also treated to spectacular views of Mount Kilimanjaro and its snow-capped peaks during both days of our stay.

After a nice stay in Amboseli National Park, we departed for the huge Tsavo West National Park further to the east. Several planned stops en route produced Spur-winged Goose, Southern Banded Snake-Eagle, Ayre’s Hawk-Eagle, Amur Falcon, Black-headed Lapwing, Black-faced Sandgrouse, Namaqua & Laughing Doves, African Orange-bellied (Red-bellied) Parrot, Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, Giant & Pied Kingfishers, Trumpeter & Crowned Hornbills, Singing Bush-Lark, Dodson’s Bulbul, Grey Tit-Flycatcher (Lead- colored Flycatcher), Black-headed Batis, African Golden-Weaver, Red-billed Quelea, African Silverbill, Cut-throat Finch, Southern Grosbeak-Canary, and Somali (Golden- breasted) Bunting.

The Tsavo National Park system is the largest in the world. Over 8000 square miles of land has been preserved, including both the Tsavo East and West sections of the park. During our stay within the park we were able to locate almost all of our target bird species such as African Darter, Yellow-billed Stork, Palm-nut Vulture, Eurasian Hobby, Vulturine Guineafowl, White-bellied Go-Away-Bird, Diederik Cuckoo, Common & Mottled Swifts, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Spot-flanked Barbet, Greater Honeyguide, Cardinal Woodpecker, Pink-breasted & Red-winged Larks, Pangani Longclaw, Northern Brownbul, African Bare-eyed Thrush, Desert Cisticola, Red-fronted Warbler, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Red-faced & Northern Crombecs, Greater (Common) Whitethroat, Ashy & Spotted Flycatchers, Spotted Morning-Thrush, Pygmy Batis, Scaly Chatterer, Somali Tit (Northern Grey-Tit), Mouse-colored Penduline-Tit, Kenya Violet-backed, Tsavo, Hunter’s, & Black-bellied Sunbirds, Abyssinian (White-breasted) White-eye, Red-backed & Red-tailed Shrikes, Pringle’s Puffback, Three-streaked Tchagra, Grey- headed Bush-Shrike, Wattled & Golden-breasted Starlings, Chestnut Weaver, and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting. Yellow Baboon, Wahlberg’s Epauletted Fruit Bat (100+ individuals seen roosting), Dwarf Mongoose, Common Genet, Bush Hyrax, Masai Giraffe, Lesser Kudu (an East African endemic), Klipspringer, Kirk’s Dikdik, Common Waterbuck, and Lichtenstein’s Hartebeest were just a few of the mammals seen in the thick bush country of Tsavo. Several interesting reptile species were also noted including Leopard Tortoise, Speke’s Hinged Tortoise, Serrated Hinged Terrapin, Nile Crocodile, White-throated Savanna Monitor, Variable Skink, Red-headed Rock Agama, and Black Mamba. The mamba measured about 7 feet and was being mobbed by a wide variety of passerines.

Next up was the Taita Hills in southeastern Kenya, an area few birders ever visit. These hills are home to several endemic species not found elsewhere in the entire world. We started our birding in dry bush country near our hotel adding several nice species to our list. Lanner & Sooty Falcons, Golden Pipit, African (Vitelline) Masked-Weaver, Lesser Masked-Weaver, and Eastern Paradise-Whydah were a few that made the list before we ascended into the Taita Hills. While in the remnant forest patches we obtained good views of all the Taita endemics. Birds noted on the morning outing were African Emerald Cuckoo, African Black Swift, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Wahlberg’s Honeybird (Wahlberg’s Honeyguide), Striped Pipit (rare in Kenya), Placid & Stripe-faced Greenbuls, Orange Ground-Thrush, Taita Thrush (rare), Taita Apalis, Blackcap, Yellow- throated Woodland-Warbler, African Dusky Flycatcher, White-starred Robin, Rueppell’s Robin-Chat, African Stonechat, Eastern Double-collared Sunbird, Taita White-eye, Red- winged Starling, Yellow Bishop, and Yellow-bellied Waxbill.

After passing through the hectic city of Mombasa, we made our way to the Shimba Hills National Reserve on Kenya’s south coast. The coastal forest patches inside the reserve are home to a myriad of specialty species. African Crowned-Eagle (Crowned Hawk-Eagle), Crested Guineafowl, Fischer’s Turaco, Klaas’s Cuckoo, Green Malkoha (Yellowbill), Bohm’s Spinetail, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, White-throated Bee-eater, White-eared & Green Barbets, Pallid Honeyguide, Grey Wagtail, Sombre Greenbul, Siffling Cisticola, Eastern Olive-Sunbird, Green-headed Oriole, Chestnut-fronted Helmet-Shrike, and the striking Red-throated (Peter’s) Twinspot were just a few of the numerous avian gems. A little known disjunct population of Western Black-and-white Colobus, a type of monkey, exists within the reserve. This is a species more commonly associated with the rainforests of West Africa. We also saw Lesser Galago (Bush Baby), Red-bellied Coast Squirrel, African Forest Elephant, Bush Pig (seen only by some), Sable Antelope, Suni (a tiny skulking antelope species), and Red Duiker. On our second day in the area we traveled south along the coast toward the Tanzanian border. In this area we saw Woolly-necked Stork, Black-shouldered Kite, Lizard Buzzard, Western Marsh- Harrier, Striped Kingfisher, Northern Carmine Bee-eater, Broad-billed Roller, Brown- breasted Barbet, Coastal Cisticola (a recent split from Winding Cisticola), Collared Palm- Thrush, Pale Batis, Purple-banded Sunbird, Golden Palm-Weaver, Fan-tailed Widowbird, Zanzibar Red Bishop, Common Waxbill, and Bronze Mannikin. In the afternoon we made our way north through Mombasa to the town of Watamu for a three-night stay.

Arabuko-Sokoke Forest is one of the most important bird areas in Kenya and we spent two full days birding this disappearing habitat zone. This strip of coastal forest is the haunt for many localized and endangered species, which was the focus of our visit. Within this dense woodland we found Tambourine Dove, Thick-billed Cuckoo, Narina Trogon, Green Woodhoopoe, Mombasa & Green-backed Woodpeckers, Yellow-bellied & Tiny Greenbuls, Eastern Nicator, Red-tailed Ant-Thrush, Black-headed Apalis, Green- backed Camaroptera, East Coast Akalat, Bearded Scrub-Robin, Forest Batis, Little Yellow Flycatcher, Blue-mantled Crested-Flycatcher, Plain-backed & Collared Sunbirds, Amani Sunbird (a pair seen nest building), African Golden-Oriole, Four-colored (Gorgeous) Bush-Shrike, Black-bellied Starling, and Dark-backed (Forest) Weaver. Only a few people saw the shy and endangered Sokoke Pipit, but everyone got a rare sighting of its nest with two very young chicks inside! Hopefully this nest will be successful and these two jewels will thrive. While searching for the pipit, we were fortunate to obtain fantastic views of the critically endangered Golden-rumped Elephant Shrew. This massive ground-dwelling shrew is very shy and normally very difficult to see.

Our night expeditions into the forest proved most successful. Our main nocturnal target species was the endangered Sokoke Scops-Owl, which was only discovered in the mid-1960s. While hiking with our local guide in the very dense Cynometra woodland, we obtained awesome views of this tiny owl. Other nocturnal birds seen on our outings were African Wood-Owl and Fiery-necked Nightjar. Two very nice mammals were also noted, the gorgeous Caracal, and the shy Honey Badger or Ratel.

During our stay along the north coast, we visited several tidal mud flats where shorebirds are prevalent. While sifting through scores of birds, we found Dimorphic Egret (both color morphs), Greater Flamingo, Crab Plover (100+ seen), Grey (Black- bellied) Plover, Common Ringed Plover, White-fronted Plover, Greater & Lesser Sand- Plovers, Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, Terek & Curlew Sandpipers, and Gull-billed Tern. On our last morning we birded a large estuary where thousands of shorebirds and seabirds congregate. Some of the many birds seen on our final outing were European Honey-Buzzard, Bar-tailed Godwit, Lesser Black-backed, Sooty & Heuglin’s Gulls, Caspian, Common, Saunder’s, White-winged, Greater Crested, & Lesser Crested Terns, Mottled Spinetail, Mangrove Kingfisher, Ethiopian Swallow, Scaly Babbler, and Fire- fronted Bishop (displaying for a lucky female).

A short one-hour flight took us back to Nairobi, where we freshened up for the long evening flight home. All in all, this trip produced 516 bird species and an amazing 56 species of mammals. It’s just too bad that a great trip like this has to ever come to an end! We hope that you will join us for next year’s fantastic tour, scheduled for 2-19 November 2005.

KENYA
1-16 November 2003

KENYA
2-17 November 2002

KENYA
by Mike Haldeman
November 2-17, 2002

This being my first trip to Africa I was content to sit back and watch the Easley brothers, Steve and Kevin, wield their magic. From day one their expertise with the birds and their love for the country in which they spend so much time was obvious.

We started our tour just outside the capital in Nairobi National Park. The life birds came in rapid succession and did not let up all day. In addition to the rarities of the area – Shelley's Francolin, Hartlaub's Bustard, Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, and the beautiful Pangani Longclaw – we were thrilled to see our first Ostriches and Long-crested Eagles. Birds such as African Harrier-Hawk, Hartlaub's Turaco, and White-headed Barbet as well as our first of many Marabou and Yellow-billed Storks and African Spoonbill helped jumpstart our triplist. The mammals were equally impressive with herds of Giraffe, Common Zebra, African Buffalo, and Coke's Hartebeest dotting the expansive landscape in every direction. Common Warthogs and the stately Eland roamed the rolling savannahs and we found three Black Rhinos resting under an isolated acacia and three Cheetahs similarly indulged in the high grass.

The following day we broke out of Nairobi and made our way toward Lake Naivasha. En route we stopped first at Limuru Pond where we found White-backed and Maccoa Ducks and the first of many Hamerkops among the numerous waterbirds. Then it was off to Gatamaiyu Forest for our first taste of highland birds. Despite a quiet start this wonderful patch of forest eventually produced four species of apalis, Moustached Green Tinkerbird, Abyssinian Crimsonwing, and excellent looks at the spectacular and highly local Black-fronted Bushshrike.

Our first activity at Lake Naivasha was a boat ride where we saw the enormous Goliath Heron, many African Fish Eagles, Giant Kingfisher, and our first Hippos. On the grounds of Lake Naivasha Country Club we located Barn Owl, Verreaux's Eagle-Owl, and Pearl-spotted Owlet before heading north toward Baringo. Along the way a few well-planned stops produced some great birds including Great Spotted Cuckoo, the highly local Schalow's Wheatear, Lyne's Cisticola, and a surprise Cape Eagle-Owl roosting in the cliffs. Our obligatory sewage pond visit held not only the expected Black Crakes but also an amazing bonus – Greater Painted-Snipe.

The next morning we set out from Lake Baringo Country Club for the nearby Baringo Cliffs. Jackson's and Hemprich's Hornbills and Brown-tailed (Rock) Chat were cooperative but the Bristle-crowned Starlings gave us only fly-bys. With the help of a few locals we found roosting Spotted Eagle-Owl, Northern White-faced Owl, several Slender-tailed Nightjars, and the striking Hueglin's Courser. Back at the hotel we enjoyed breakfast and lunch by the feeding station with its attendant Red-and-yellow Barbets, Rufous Chatterers, Brown Babblers, and a host of different weavers. Our afternoon around the hotel yielded two amazing Bushshrikes – Sulphur-breasted and Gray-headed. Hunter's Sunbirds with their vibrant violet rumps and Lilac-breasted Rollers frequented the area by the cabins while African Pygmy Kingfisher and the spectacular white morph African Paradise Flycatcher preferred the parking area. During a late afternoon walk on the lakeshore we found a large distant flock of Caspian Plovers. As we approached them for a better look, two Temminck's Coursers showed themselves for excellent scope views – a two courser day! That night four Hippos decided to mow the grass right in front of our cabins as several of us watched by spotlight.

After some Meyer's (Brown) Parrots and Silverbirds near Baringo we set out early heading west. In the Kerio Valley we had a nice picnic lunch and then located the stunning and difficult White-crested Turaco along with Double-toothed Barbet and Black-headed Gonolek. A few other seemingly impromptu stops gave us our only looks at White-necked Raven and Bronze-tailed Starling, plus some spectacular views of Ross's Turaco and bonus Black-throated Wattle-eye and Purple-throated Cuckoo-shrike.

Our next few days were spent at the Rondo Retreat Center. Nestled in the Kakamega Forest of West Kenya this is truly a birder's paradise and almost all of the birds were completely new for us. On the grounds alone we had Great Blue Turaco and flocks containing such rarities as Southern Hyliota and Turner's Eremomela. Black-and-white-casqued Hornbills and Blue Monkeys were almost always in view and a Long-crested Eagle resided in the center of the grounds.

The surrounding forest seemed to be constantly alive with bird activity. In our first day there we saw eleven species of the bulbul family – almost all of them the difficult greenbuls. The forest-dwelling weavers were evident and we tallied Black-billed, Black-necked, the nuthatch-like Brown-capped, Viellot's, and Dark-backed Weavers, and the beautiful Red-headed Malimbe. Scope views for all of African Broadbill, Blue-headed Bee-eater, and, amazingly, White-tailed Ant-Thrush added to our amazement. We found the other four possible wattle-eyes including close views of a real stunner – Jameson's Wattle-eye, and a real rarity, Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye. But the star of the show – voted number one bird of the tour – was the diminutive forest rail – White-spotted Flufftail. A male and female were incredibly cooperative sitting in a small stream preening in full view. Another highlight was two of the extremely difficult Chapin's Flycatchers harassing an African Wood-Owl – our seventh owl species seen in broad daylight. On an afternoon trip to Lake Victoria from Rondo we saw many of the area's specialties but could not get a look at Papyrus Gonolek. We think we made up for it with unexpected birds such as Black-billed Barbet and Papyrus Canary.

On our journey from Rondo back into the Rift Valley, a high elevation stop by blooming lion's mane flowers gave us a chance to study the amazingly vibrant Malachite and Golden-winged Sunbirds as they fed, showing us their iridescence from every angle. As we watched the spectacle a local boy happened to be walking along the edge of a marsh just below us and flushed three African Snipe. After a brief Tacazze Sunbird and a quick lakeside stop for close Gray Crowned Cranes and a bonus Blue-headed Coucal we continued on to Lake Nakuru.

From the Lion Hill Sarova Lodge, set high above the lake for a beautiful panorama, we explored Lake Nakuru National Park. At a distance the lake appears pinkish, but on closer inspection nearly one million Lesser Flamingos reveal themselves. On even closer inspection we would locate a few Greater Flamingos, a Dimorphic Egret, and a vagrant Greater Spotted Eagle. Stephen convinced us all of the identification using his digital camera and scope to photograph the eagle's………. NOSTRILS – a diagnostic field mark! On our safari drive through the park we saw many enormous White Rhinos and at one point had to follow slowly behind a troop of over one hundred Olive Baboons. Bird highlights included several close Secretary-birds, a Black-breasted Snake-Eagle, two Broad-billed Rollers, and four Southern Ground Hornbills crossing the road in front of our vans.

From Nakuru we drove to Naro Moru Lodge near the base of Mount Kenya. On the way we stopped at Thompson Falls, an amazing cascade in the highlands with an attendant group of Slender-billed Starlings. From there we crossed high elevation grasslands stopping to admire breeding male Long-tailed Widowbirds in their awkward flight across the plains. It was at this stop that we noticed an Imperial Eagle in the distance that had apparently been chased off its kill by a Golden Jackal – both scarce in Kenya.

From Naro Moru we visited Mount Kenya National Park but due to recent rains were not allowed to drive the road into the park. So we walked up the road a short distance and picked up highland specialties such as Abyssinian Ground-Thrush, Tullberg's Woodpecker, White-tailed Crested-Flycatcher and Gray Cuckoo-shrike. It was here that we finally caught up with an amazing male African Emerald Cuckoo that perched long enough for repeated scope views for all. And on our way down an African Crowned Eagle was found sitting just above eye-level on the edge of the road in the open.

From Naro Moru we went north toward Samburu. On the way we were forced to stop when someone noticed the enormous Alpine Swift in the swift flock skimming the high grasslands. After studying this bird for some time a Wing-snapping Cisticola began displaying nearby and we all eventually had nice looks at this difficult bird.

Upon our arrival in Samburu/Buffalo Springs we were back in big game country. The landscape seemed to stretch forever with towering escarpments and rock formations reminiscent of the American Southwest lining the horizon. Just before arriving at our plush accommodations in Samburu Serena Lodge we ran into our first herd of African Elephants. It was amazing to see these enormous animals so close to our comparatively small vans. And shortly after our arrival at the lodge many of us watched a Leopard come into the bait station to devour the nightly offering.

The game drives in Samburu's semi-desert habitat were remarkable and again, many of the birds were completely new. Eastern Yellow-billed and Von der Decken's Hornbills joined the abundant Red-billed in this drier habitat, and a few Blue-capped Cordonbleu joined the numerous Red-cheeked with which we had become so familiar. The long-necked Gerenuk became one of the more common antelope. Beisa Oryx were occasionally seen with the large Impala herds and Vulturine Guineafowl and Kirk's Dik-diks were common in the thornscrub. We found a stately Kori Bustard and several Buff-crested Bustards. Some of us even witnessed the males of the latter species display whereby he bursts straight up thirty feet into the air and then spreads his wings and floats back to earth. There was a new bee-eater - Somali, a new roller - Rufous-crowned, and a new mousebird - White-headed. Violet Wood-Hoopoe replaced Green in the vicinity of the many-branched Doum Palms, and African Orange-bellied (Red-bellied) Parrots were seen along the river. At one point we were surrounded by a large flock of small birds that included such specialties as Yellow-vented Eremomela, Banded Parisoma, and the little-known Somali (Long-billed) Crombec.

Our second night in Samburu we were poised and ready at twilight when they loaded the bait station across the river. Large Nile Crocodiles fought for scraps in front of us but we kept a vigilant watch on the bait. A Spotted Hyena came in briefly, leaving when it realized it could not reach the prize. Finally, after all but Kevin had retired for the evening the Leopard returned. The persistent guide sent out the alarm and people came running, some only partially dressed, for the show.

The last morning in Samburu we saw some Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse and many more Black-faced. Different goals sent the two vans in different directions. While one group spent time searching for the Golden-breasted Starling, thought by some to be the most beautiful bird in the world, others saw yet another Leopard. We actually approached within thirty feet of the beautiful cat as it lay partially hidden near some low bushes, Impala remains ten feet away. We watched for two full minutes and then the animal walked deeper into the brush for a little more rest. On our way out of Samburu we found a flock of Somalia Coursers and, at the entrance gate, more Golden-breasted Starlings.

From the semi-desert north we went south back to Mount Kenya. This time we stayed at the world famous Mountain Lodge. Upon our arrival around sunset there were several Bushbuck, Marsh Mongoose, and two Giant Forest Hogs visible from the balcony of the lodge. This incredible hotel is located beside a marsh that is surrounded by exposed mud. Many animals visit the mud to obtain minerals necessary for their diet. Others, like the sleek Common Genet, visit for the meat laid out on the bait tray by the balcony. In the morning the balcony also serves as a great birding platform. Three Wooly-necked Storks, Cape Wagtails, and Ruppell's Robin-Chats were evident in the clearing and Red-fronted Parrot and Montane (Black-tailed) Oriole visited the trees nearby. Just below the lodge we had scope views of Silvery-cheeked Hornbills and the Scarce Swifts did not live up to their name.

On our return trip to Nairobi a visit to some rice fields produced White-winged Widowbirds and we watched in amazement as the Yellow-crowned Bishop performed its flight display. The tiny black and yellow males look amazingly like large bumblebees as they zip across the fields barely above the grasses. Giving up any opportunity whatsoever for last minute shopping in Nairobi, one group opted for a chance at the endemic and endangered Hinde's Babbler. We had excellent looks at a family group of these birds – in the scope at close range. To add to this last minute treat, a pair of Ayre's Hawk-Eagles flew over us playing as if in a pair-bonding exercise. As if seeing this scarce raptor wasn't enough – one of the pair was dark morph – a morph that may not have been previously recorded in all of East Africa! This was truly a standout among the more than fifty raptors and nearly 600 species seen on this tour!

Masai Mara Trip Report
By Steven Easley
October 30 - November 2, 2002

Day 1 - Our trip to the world famous Masai Mara began at the Wilson Airport on the outskirts of Nairobi. Before our departure we were treated with nice views of a soaring Booted Eagle, a nice start to a fantastic 5 day trip. Seeing the Great Rift Valley, and scores of large animals from the air was a truly memorable experience. The first new bird after landing was the majestic Secretary-Bird hunting in the grassland near the runway. After getting situated in our wonderful accommodations we were excited and ready to explore the surrounding area. Some of the first birds we encountered were: Superb Starling, Usambiro Barbet, Black-crowned Tchagra, Purple Grenadier, Yellow-fronted Canary, and crippling views of a pair of Rufous-necked Wrynecks. In the more open areas we found Wahlberg’s Eagle, Red-necked Spurfowl, Slate-colored Boubou, and a nice party of Arrow-marked Babblers. Mammals seen on our first day included: Olive Baboon, Gentle Monkey (Blue Monkey), Banded Mongoose, African Elephant, Common Zebra, Common Warthog, African Buffalo, Thomson’s and Grant’s Gazelles, Impala, Topi, and thousands of White-bearded Gnu (Wildebeest).
Night – Kichwa Tembo Luxury Tented Camp

Day 2 - Waking up in the Mara and witnessing the sunrise over the open plains is a great way to start any day on safari. We started our birding in the nearby Sabaringo Valley. The valley was very productive and we were able to find the very localized Ovambo Sparrowhawk, as well as point blank views of an African Goshawk. Other nice birds seen on the morning outing were: Bateleur, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Ross’s Turaco, Woodland Kingfisher, Gray-throated, Spot-flanked, and White-headed Barbets, and the very local Trilling and Long-tailed Cisticolas. Birding the hotel grounds after breakfast produced some spectacular species as well: Marabou Stork, Hamerkop, Schalow’s Turaco, Narina Trogon, Double-toothed Barbet, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Green-backed Woodpecker, Ashy Flycatcher, and the stunning combo of Mariqua and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds. In the afternoon we traveled to a large wetland area called the Musiara Swamp. En route we made several stops in the short acacia woodland where we found: Steppe Eagle, Coqui Francolin, White-bellied Bustard, Black-winged Plover, Temminck’s Courser, Silverbird, Greater Blue-eared and Hildebrandt’s Starlings, Speckle-fronted Weaver, plus the beautiful Golden-breasted Bunting. Upon our arrival at the swamp we were treated with great views of a hunting lioness, later seen at very close range. As we scanned across the plains we could see Elephants coming in and out of the marsh from almost every direction. The birding in this area was also very impressive, we added: the very local Rufous-bellied Heron, Yellow-billed Stork, Gray Crowned Crane, African Jacana, Wattled Lapwing, Common Snipe, Malachite Kingfisher, Red-throated Pipit, and Fan-tailed Widowbird. Interesting mammals seen on this day were: Black-faced Vervet Monkey, Yellow-winged Bat, White-tailed and Slender Mongooses, Black-backed Jackal, Spotted Hyena, African Elephants, Hippo, "Masai" Giraffe, Eland, Kirk’s Dikdik, Bohor Reedbuck, and many different antelope species.
Night – Kichwa Tembo Luxury Tented Camp

Day 3 - What a day this would turn out to be, 175 species total! Starting early around the lodge we found: Tambourine Dove, Cabanis’s Greenbul, Broad-tailed Warbler, Red-faced Cisticola, African Blue Flycatcher, and the fabulous Gray-headed Bush-Shrike. After breakfast we quickly added Familiar Chat, Flappet Lark, and Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting before heading across the Mara. While en route to the Mara River, the grasslands and riverine woodland produced: Wooly-necked Stork, Comb Duck, Hooded, White-backed, Ruppell’s Griffon, and Lappet-faced Vultures, Black-breasted Snake-Eagle, Pallid and Montagu’s Harriers, the massive Martial Eagle, Gray Kestrel, Spotted Thick-knee, Bearded Woodpecker, Rosy-breasted Longclaw, and the diminutive Quail Finch. While watching a group of Southern Ground Hornbills we noticed they had flushed a nightjar. After watching it flutter to the ground, we pulled closer and had great views of a Gabon Nightjar. While searching around the Mara River we found a dead Hippo that was being eaten by several 15-foot Nile Crocodiles! After a short rain this area seemed to explode with bird life; we noted: African Fish Eagle, Water Thick-knee, Caspian Plover, Broad-billed Roller, Red-capped Lark, Rufous-chested Swallow, a small group of the very local Magpie Shrikes, Banded Parisoma, Chestnut and Swaheli Sparrows, and a large nesting colony of Gray-capped Social Weavers. Later in the afternoon we came across a large pride of Lions. After watching two large males, we noticed a couple of lionesses that were tending to five tiny cubs. But the most memorable moment was watching the two big males roaring, you could even see steam coming out of their mouths with every roar! Just before retiring for the night we located: Dark Chanting Goshawk, Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, and the colorful African Pygmy Kingfisher. Mammals noted were: Spotted Hyena, Bush Hyrax, African Elephant, Common Zebra, Hippo, Common Warthog, "Masai" Giraffe, African Buffalo, Eland, Defassa Waterbuck, Coke’s Hartebeest (Kongoni), 5 species of antelopes, and countless numbers of Wildebeest.
Night – Mara Sarova Luxury Tented Camp

Day 4 - We all awoke to the cheerful, yet loud, song of the beautiful White-browed Robin-Chat. After a cup of coffee we were off exploring the rich grasslands around the Talek River where we encountered: Common Ostrich, White-headed Vulture (on its nest), Brown Snake-Eagle, African Grey Hornbill, Lilac-breasted Roller, Little Bee-eater, Fischer’s Sparrow-Lark, Red-billed and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers, and Croaking Cisticola. Certainly the highlight of the morning was a small group of Spotted Hyenas that had killed a baby Topi. The kill, only minutes old, had already attracted a pair of Black-backed Jackals, a Tawny Eagle, and about forty vultures. It was fascinating to watch the action just a few feet from our van! Some of the better birds seen around the grounds after breakfast were: Bare-faced Go-away-bird, a pair of Giant Kingfishers, Klaas’s Cuckoo, Black Cuckoo-Shrike, African Black-headed Oriole, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, Gray-capped Warbler, and Spectacled Weaver. After a short transfer to another fantastic lodge, we birded the hotel grounds and a nearby wooded slope, adding many new species including: Von der Decken’s Hornbill, Gray-headed Kingfisher, African Paradise Flycatcher, Sulphur-breasted Bush-Shrike, Northern Wheatear, Chin-spot Batis, and Yellow-rumped Seed-eater. A Little Sparrowhawk with a freshly killed Speckled Mousebird was a nice sighting as we finished our bird walk. In the evening the lodge staff puts out scraps of food to attract nocturnal mammals. We were treated to good looks at Silver Galago, Common Genet, and African Wild Cat. The Tree Hyrax, with its blood curdling screams, certainly stole the show this night!
Night – Siana Springs Luxury Tented Camp

Day 5 - The area around Siana Springs in certainly an exciting place, home to many species not easily found elsewhere in Kenya. Birds seen on our early morning bird drive were: Pygmy Falcon, Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove, Meyer’s Parrot, Blue-naped Mousebird, Striped Kingfisher, Common Scimitarbill, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Red-fronted Barbet, White-headed Saw-wing, Pied Wheatear, Desert Cisticola, Pale Wren-Warbler, Green-capped Eremomela (unusual in this locality), Red-throated Tit, African Penduline-Tit, Violet-backed Starling, White-headed Buffalo-Weaver, and the wonderful Red-headed Weaver. Later while traveling through the Great Rift Valley, en route back to Nairobi, we were able to find: Greater Kestrel, Kori Bustard, Dusky Turtle-Dove, White-fronted Bee-eater, Capped Wheatear, and a small party of Crimson-rumped Waxbills. Also along the drive we spotted a pair of Bat-eared Foxes sitting next to their den. After the dust settled we had logged 274 birds and 35 mammals. Truly the Masia Mara is one of the most exciting reserves in all of Africa!

KENYA:
3-18 November 2001

KENYA
by Bob Schutsky
November 3-18, 2001

I first met Kevin Easley at Tarcol Lodge in Costa Rica. He was the birding guide and manager at Tarcol and my tour group was spending a few days with him, exploring Carara National Park and the Tarcol River. One evening after the checklist Kevin asked me if I had ever considered a tour to Kenya. He went on to tell me many wonderful things about the country and its birds and wildlife. He and his brother Steve had lived there and birded the country for a number of years. I knew how good Kevin was with the birds of Costa Rica and he was telling me how much better Steve was with the birds of Kenya. How could I say no? We made a few arrangements, collected a nice group of 11 people, and our first Kenya Tour was off and running.

There are about 1100 species of birds that have been observed in Kenya; we saw more than half of them in two weeks. In addition we found 55 species of mammals, perhaps more than could be seen in a similar time frame anywhere in the world. We rode in two comfortable safari vans, the type in which the roof raises for great 360-degree viewing. Much of our birding was from the vans, as it is not safe (or legal) to walk around where Lions or Rhinos may be in the nearby clump of bushes or grass. Our native drivers were Sampson and Peter, two men who were highly skilled, knowledgeable, and possessed a wonderful sense of humor. Our lodges were scenic and very comfortable, with bird-rich habitats right on the grounds. Many of them had feeders that attracted a variety of birds by day and interesting mammals by night, including such show-stoppers as a Leopard, a Bush Baby, and Nile Crocodiles.

The favorite bird of the entire tour was a single Red-chested Owlet that we found at Kakamega Rainforest Preserve. An owlet in Africa is comparable to a pygmy-owl in the Americas. This is a very elusive forest species that Kevin and Steve had heard before but never seen. After we finally located it we had it in the scopes for at least 15 minutes for all to see and appreciate. As we left it was still calling from the same perch. We also found several Pearl-spotted Owlets, a White-faced Scops Owl, and Verreaux's and Spotted Eagle-Owls, all during the day. Our only nocturnal owl was the Barn Owl that we heard and saw at the Lake Barringo Country Club. Yes, that's the same Barn Owl that we have here at home; it is found on six continents around the world.

Raptors were one of the big highlights of the tour. Most of the 49 species that we found were seen quite well, often in action, taking and hunting prey. Two of the most popular species were the African Crowned Eagle and Red-necked Falcon. Several Crowned Eagles were found on Mount Kenya and were simply spectacular, sort of the African version of a Harpy Eagle. We found the falcons after we departed Mountain Lodge on our way to Samburu. This is a kestrel-sized falcon with very heavy barring across most of its underparts. One of my personal favorites was the Pygmy Falcon that was more the size of a pygmy-owl than any raptor I had ever seen. The Secretary Bird is distantly related to the Falconiformes and is one of those species that is uniquely African. It is a tall, long-legged bird that hunts on the ground. There will be a nice photo on our web site in the near future.

Lilac-breasted Roller, Ross's Turaco, African Hoopoe, and Red-and-yellow Barbet were all very showy, colorful, attractive species. Another big favorite was the African Paradise Flycatcher with its black crested head, rufous back and tail, and exceedingly long tail streamers that would make a Fork-tailed Flycatcher look stub-tailed! This species also appears as a white morph in which the back and tail streamers are almost pure white. When it flew to a perch or hovered to catch an insect, it was one of the most graceful creatures that you could ever imagine.

Every region has its share of rather plain brown birds, and Kenya is certainly no exception. Perhaps the epitome of this was the Somali Long-billed Crombec. It is found in the dry northern and eastern portions of the country and for that reason is rarely seen by birders. Kevin located one at Samburu and we knew by his reaction and his radio transmission to Steven that we were onto something good. After we all had good looks at this short-tailed, long-billed wonder, Steven proceeded to record its intricate calls. A year earlier he had made the very first recording ever obtained of this species, just a few seconds in duration. Now he has many minutes on tape and is absolutely thrilled: it was one of only five species in East Africa whose vocalizations were basically unrecorded. Now there are only four.

One of the true spectacles of our African adventure occurred at Lake Nakuru in the Rift Valley. After making our way past a troop of Olive Baboons, a Long-crested Eagle, some Coqui's Francolins and similar distractions, we came to the edge of the expansive saline lake. The entire fringe of the lake appeared pink, the effect of a million or more Lesser and Greater Flamingoes! They were wading, feeding, preening, flying, and even swimming. Some were simply standing and roosting on their long, spindly legs. It was a sight I will never forget. And just to add to the excitement, an endangered White Rhino was resting on the exposed lakeshore. We were able to drive very close to it for incredible looks and photos.

Mammals were a very large part of this tour. Kenya is the prime location in the world for viewing large mammals and we made every reasonable attempt to find all that we could. Leopard was the almost unanimous choice for the top mammal of the tour. Our first one appeared walking down a dirt road toward one of our vans at fairly close range. The people in the second van were also able to see it after it moved into the grass. We saw two Leopards in Samburu, both in the same day. The first was near the river and walked directly in front of our van, while the other came to some bait that is put out nightly. As the Leopard was eating the bait, a typically elusive Striped Hyena was on the ground beneath, picking up the scraps.

We had excellent looks at a total of about 20 Lions. There was a female with three cubs and another female nearby. They had killed a nearly full-grown Zebra that morning and dragged it into a low tree. A pride of eight Lions had killed a half-grown African Elephant and were sleeping off the results of the feast. When we arrived the Spotted Hyenas and several species of vultures had gathered to finish the remaining scraps. During the last hour of our last day, while in Nairobi National Park, we located three Cheetahs. We occasionally saw their faces and twitching tails, but they were mostly hidden in the high grass.

Other favorite species included the Gerenuk (a long-necked antelope), Black Rhino (at least two females, each with a young), the stunning Black-and-white Colobus Monkey, Beisa Oryx (a very large, strikingly patterned antelope), and three different races of Giraffe. There were African Elephants feeding 100 feet from our rooms, 1000's of migrating Wildebeest, and Black-faced Vervet Monkeys nursing their young. There were also a couple of Blue Syke's Monkeys that sneaked into my room. The only thing that they managed to escape with was a pack of chewing gum. I wonder if this was the same monkey that Dianne smacked in the nose the day before to keep it out of her room…hmmm?

Next year's KENYA ADVENTURE is scheduled for November 2-17, 2002. We are limited to 11 participants so that everyone has a window seat in the van. The first few people have already registered, so please contact us if you are considering this tour. The itinerary will be on our web site just as soon as Kevin and I have refined and finalized it. It's the tour of a lifetime, guaranteed!