I headed for the Canopy Tower Lodge, my home for the next three nights and the beginning of the organized tour. After showering and getting organized, I headed to the top observation deck and ended up seeing three individual THREE-TOED SLOTHs! Wow, I had only seen about 6 in all my trips to the tropics. Other birds in the area were a ZONE-TAILED HAWK and a BAT FALCON being mobbed by BAND-RUMPED and SHORT-TAILED SWIFTs.

I left the lodge to make the 40-minute drive to the airport to pick up the incoming tour participants. However, the 40-minute drive doubled in time since rush hour had descended. Miraculously, I traded in one car, and picked up another just in time before meeting the group. We navigated the streets of Panama City and arrived at the lodge by about 9:45.

A quick note about the Canopy Tower: This is a lodge that has been transformed from a US Air Force radar installation to a multilevel wildlife-viewing lodge. It stands on top of Semaphore Hill near the Continental Divide about seven miles from Pipeline Road. The lower level is a bilingual exhibit area with photos of some of the local wildlife, a review of ornithology in Panama, effects of pollution on the environment, and data on the local Howler Monkeys. The second level is taken by rooms which house the guides and a mezzanine area with windows for viewing a different level of the surrounding forest. Six comfortable two-person bedrooms with full bathrooms comprise the third level. Above this level is the dining area that is completely surrounded by panoramic windows. Hammocks add a relaxed touch, as does a library with a good selection of wildlife books and a comfortable couch. For the wildlife viewer, the upper level is where most of the action is although any level can be great. Just 20 steps up from the dining area, you are on top of the world with a 360-degree view of the surrounding area at canopy level. Sturdy chairs and tables have been conveniently placed so you can rest your drinks and your weary bones as you watch the parade of wildlife for miles around. By all accounts, this is decadent birding which I have no problem enjoying! There are established mealtimes that can be adjusted dependent on the day's activities. The meals are delicious and you will not leave hungry. Coffee is served on the observation deck at 6 AM when most folks are on the deck to view the breaking dawn.

We were all up on the observation deck at 6 AM to greet the dawn and the birds. The growling sounds of MANTLED HOWLER MONKEYs were everywhere giving the scene a primeval feel. The first birds started coming into view -- a group of RED-LORED PARROTs perched in the top of a tree, several magnificent KEEL-BILLED TOUCANs with their gaudy bills glistening in the early morning light, and several THREE-TOED SLOTHs clinging to the branches where they were the previous evening. As the light hit the canopy closer to the deck, birds emerged. A pair of glistening GREEN HONEYCREEPERs fed nearby and stopped long enough for excellent scope views while a pair of BLUE DACNIS delighted us. Both PHILADELPHIA VIREO and BAY-BREASTED WARBLER vied for attention with CHESTNUT-MANDIBLED TOUCAN, the numerous TROPICAL KINGBIRDs, SCALED PIGEONs, and YELLOW-GREEN VIREOs. From far down the slope, a brilliant male BLUE COTINGA came into view. Luckily, this would eventually come much closer and afford prolonged views. A ZONE-TAILED HAWK took off and circled below eye level for an interesting view of this species. PALM and BLUE-GRAY TANAGERs seemed to always be in sight, the PALM TANAGERs perching on the deck in search of spilled fruit drink from the night before! GREEN SHRIKE-VIREOs called nearby but continued to remain one with the leaves. A SQUIRREL CUCKOO and TROPICAL GNATCATCHERs foraged in a nearby acacia. Eventually, the single BLUE COTINGA was joined by two others and they fed on fruits below the canopy only 40 yards away. They in turn were joined by several GRAY-HEADED CHACHALACAs. A SLATE-COLORED GROSBEAK played hide and seek with us. PLAIN-COLORED TANAGERs and a few YELLOW-CROWNED EUPHONIAs fed nearby. Looking below, a female WESTERN SLATY ANTSHRIKE foraged in low vegetation while several WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGERs and LESSER GREENLETs fed nearby. A pair of GOLDEN-HOODED TANAGERs added more color. After a while, things started to slow down and we descended to the dining room for breakfast. Even at breakfast, wildlife continued to emerge and we were interrupted several times. The BLUE COTINGAs were even more beautiful and closer, a VIOLET-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD zipped by, and we were given excellent views of both male and female WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGERs.

After breakfast, we prepared to walk the paved driveway down Semaphore Hill. Immediately, a male WESTERN SLATY ANTSHRIKE was in view. A few yards further, a male RED-CAPPED MANAKIN buzzed overhead. A COCOA WOODCREEPER crept along some partially hidden branches but was brought into view by the Kowa spotting scope. We were greeted by a troop of GEOFFREY'S TAMARINs at one bend in the road. A prolonged stop yielded several more WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGERs, a beautiful BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT, and a male FULVOUS-VENTED EUPHONIA. A SLATY-TAILED TROGON called nearby. Further down, a LONG-TAILED HERMIT and RED-THROATED ANT-TANAGER were feeding in a heliconia. We finally got great views of multiple VIOLACEOUS TROGONs, which we had been hearing most of the morning. Looking skyward revealed a circling BLACK HAWK-EAGLE. While watching a second even more confiding BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT, several DOT-WINGED ANTWRENs came through and fed in clusters of dead leaves. Noon approached quickly and we were picked up and brought back to the lodge for lunch. A large LAND IGUANA in the road was a treat and we watched it scamper into the underbrush. After our delicious meal, we prepared for the afternoon excursion. Unfortunately, car issues surfaced and our plans were curtailed. This would be the only unforeseen wrinkle during the trip. We did see groups of migrating raptors flying north over the lodge with small numbers of MISSISSIPPI KITEs and SWAINSON'S HAWKs mixed in with the TURKEY VULTUREs. Afternoon turned into evening and we said farewell to the day up at the observation platform. Dinner followed with listing afterwards.

Activity from the observation deck was slower than the preceding day due to increased winds. However, most of the birds from before were there with the addition of a VIOLACEOUS TROGON. The BLUE COTINGAs put on quite a performance. After breakfast, we drove down to Plantation Road for a slow walk up this shaded area.

Bird activity was low during the first half of our walk with LOUISIANA WATERTHRUSH and a close BROAD-WINGED HAWK providing the highlights. A few BLUE-CROWNED MANAKINs were in the area and we found a flock of SUBTROPICAL (RED-RUMPED) CACIQUEs. We finally found a flock that kept the new birds coming for an hour or so. Antwrens were conspicuous with DOT-WINGED and CHECKER-THROATED ANTWRENS being common. A BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA was a nice find and stayed visible for about a minute. A diminutive RUDDY-TAILED FLYCATCHER gave good views, as did a perched BLACK-BREASTED PUFFBIRD that stayed on its perched for a prolonged period. While watching the Puffbird, we found and watched a beautiful CINNAMON WOODPECKER feeding on a nearby branch. The strange PLAIN XENOPS were common in the area. A FASCIATED ANTSHRIKE and a PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER put in appearances. After turning around and going several yards, we found a WHITE-WHISKERED PUFFBIRD stealthily perched on a low twig. Kowa views revealed the individual whiskers. As we exited the covered canopy of the trail, we were delighted to be met by a BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT at eye level. We piled into the car thinking that our birding was finished for the morning. However, after rounding a bend on the driveway to the lodge, a surprise BLACK HAWK-EAGLE took off from the road and landed on a branch at eye level only 20 feet from the car. It turned around and stared at us, the feathers on its neck and its crest raised, tail spread and wings partially extended. We had an absolutely spectacular view of this species, which is most commonly seen flying overhead. This was voted the most memorable bird of the tour!

After lunch, Anne and I decided to head back to Plantation Road to see if we could relocate the flock. We never made it to where we had left them because of other birds. Our efforts were rewarded with good views of DOT-WINGED, CHECKER-THROATED, and WHITE-FLANKED ANTWRENs and a very cooperative OLIVACEOUS FLATBILL that stayed in view for a long time. While we watched, a larger bird flew in and started the telltale sideways twitching of the tale -- a RUFOUS MOTMOT. We studied it for about ten minutes noting the field marks that separate it from the smaller Broad-billed Motmot that we had seen earlier. We eventually ran out of time and ascended the hill to pick up Marilynn and Homer. We headed for the Old Gamboa Road and the Boat-billed Herons. En route, we viewed a BAT FALCON lazily flying overhead. The BOAT-BILLED HERONs were there to greet us. That pond proved very good as we spotted both SOLITARY and SPOTTED SANDPIPERS and quite a few TROPICAL KINGBIRDs. A flock of BAND-RUMPED SWIFTs descended and sipped water, giving us a rare view of the dorsal side of a swift. The pale rump was obvious which clinched the identification. Across the street, RED-CROWNED WOODPECKERs and CLAY-COLORED THRUSHes were obvious. Along the adjacent pond, a RINGED KINGFISHER rattled and dove for fish. At the far end of the pond, a CAPPED HERON stood, plumes swaying in the light breeze. This was one of the target birds. Turning our attention to the Boat-bill pond, we scoured the likely kingfisher perches. Homer found our target, an AMERICAN PYGMY KINGFISHER that obligingly sat on several close exposed perches over the pond. Much to our delight, it kept coming closer until it was in video camera range. This individual has now been recorded for the ages. We left this hotspot and headed down the road. Birds were everywhere including a good selection of large flycatchers -- PANAMA, STREAKED, BOAT-BILLED and RUSTY-MARGINED. A DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER called in the background. BALTIMORE and ORCHARD ORIOLEs were around in addition to ROSE-BREASTED GROSBEAKs and YELLOW and BAY-BREASTED WARBLERS. TANAGERs included CRIMSON-BACKED, BLUE-GRAY, PALM, and GOLDEN-HOODED while the grasses held VARIABLE SEEDEATERs. TURKEY VULTURES, SWAINSON'S HAWKs and BROAD-WINGED HAWKs streamed overhead. Further down the road, hummingbirds were everywhere including GARDEN EMERALDs, RUFOUS-TAILED HUMMINGBIRDs and a WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN. Further down, we were surprised to find a LINEATED WOODPECKER peering out of its hole. The Kowa revealed the individual feathers on the head and the soiled appearance of the bird indicating that his bird had been in the hole for a long time. Further ahead, YELLOW-RUMPED CACIQUEs and the occasional CHESTNUT-HEADED OROPENDOLA were flying to roost. Flocks of ORCHARD ORIOLEs were invisible while RED-THROATED ANT-TANAGERs churred in the low thick vegetation. A TROPICAL MOCKINGBIRD perched on a nearby fence post while a PIRATIC FLYCATCHER lit on top of a distant tree. KEEP-BILLED TOUCANs kept flying by. A male WHITE-LINED TANAGER and several STREAKED SALTATORs put in brief appearances. On our return walk, we spied several COLLARED ARACARIs moving through the canopy. They stopped long enough for scope views. One final check of the Capped Heron pond netted several more GRAY-HEADED CHACHALACAs and two GRAY-NECKED WOOD-RAILs. Instead of returning straight to the lodge, we opted for a quick trip to the Ammunition Ponds area for PAURAQUEs. We were not disappointed as we saw at least five along the roadside. Dinner was, again, delicious although it was interrupted by the sighting of a KINKAJOU coming in for a banana snack. Listing ended a very successful day.

We had a very early start since I wanted to be at the Ammunition Ponds for the dawn chorus. We were greeted by BLACK-STRIPED SPARROWs, YELLOW-CROWNED EUPHONIAs, BLUE-GRAY TANAGERs and STREAKED FLYCATCHERs. LESSER ELEANIAs frolicked in the cecropias while a YELLOW-BELLIED ELEANIA watched from a different perch. STREAKED SALTATORs were common in addition to the numerous VARIABLE SEEDEATERs. Scoping revealed a PURPLE GALLINULE which was just below a large tree limb where a pair of MUSCOVYs was resting. RED-LORED and BLUE-HEADED PARROTs squawked overhead. LESSER KISKADEEs and COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHERs worked the trees near the marsh while WATTLED JACANAs adorned all parts of the marsh. A PLAIN WREN sang nearby. We eventually made our way to Pipeline Road after stops for viewing YELLOW-BILLED CACIQUEs and BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUITs. We were greeted by a cacophony of sound as we entered the road. DUSKY ANTBIRDs and RED-THROATED ANT-TANAGERs were churring low in the vegetation while GOLDEN-COLLARED MANAKINs snapped further ahead. PURPLE-THROATED FRUITCROWs called in the distance. At the base of a heliconia, a LONG-TAILED and a LITTLE HERMIT buzzed while a female GOLDEN-COLLARED MANAKIN and a pair of DUSKY ANTBIRDs worked the backside of the heliconia. We continued onwards although the heat of the day seemed to start early and the activity was already waning quickly. At the first bridge, a BLACK-CHEEKED WOODPECKER worked a tree trunk while several displaying PURPLE-THROATED FRUITCROWs put on a good show. Several antwren flocks held SOUTHERN BENTBILL and OLIVACEOUS FLATBILL. The anticipated immature RUFESCENT TIGER-HERON had unfortunately moved on to, presumably, clearer water and better fishing. Several HOOK-BILLED KITEs and a distant WHITE HAWK increased our raptor list. I decided that the best way to find our target, an army ant swarm, was to drive slowly, stop frequently, and listen. With only a mile to go before departing, we stopped and immediately saw antbirds next to the car. The BICOLORED ANTBIRDs were beside themselves picking off the fleeing insects. They were, as is typical of Pipeline flocks, the most common. A big surprise was the presence of three OCELLATED ANTBIRDs, a favorite of mine and the first that I have ever seen before the first stream crossing. Several GRAY-HEADED TANAGERs skirted the flock and occasionally allowed for good views. A male FASCIATED ANTSHRIKE came within 8 feet of us as we watched in amazement. PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPERs were common and one NORTHERN BARRED WOODCREEPER decided that perching on the ground afforded a better chance to snatch escaping insects than up on a trunk with its cousins. Raucous RED-THROATED ANT-TANAGERs rounded out the cast of characters. All these birds were very close and let us enjoy what I consider to be the ultimate Neotropical birding experience. As the birds slipped slowly away, so did we as mid-day had already arrived. We headed back to another delicious lunch at the lodge. En route, Ammunition Ponds held an early migrant EASTERN KINGBIRD. Lunch was waiting for us and we reveled in the post lunch siesta. Mid-afternoon brought a heavy but brief rain shower that cooled things down a bit. SUBTROPICAL CACIQUEs, GEOFFREY'S TAMARINs, BLUE DACNIS, and a pair of MASKED TITYRAs graced the view from the observation deck.

By popular vote, our late afternoon excursion took us back to Old Gamboa Road. We saw most of the same birds that we recorded the previous afternoon and evening with the addition of SNOWY-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRDs, BLACK-THROATED MANGO, and several great views of WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN. LESSER SEED-FINCHes in the grasses by the woodpecker tree added another species to the list. We caught a brief glimpse of the resident BLUE-CROWNED MOTMOT but we were unable to find its perch despite a diligent search. A final walk up the road past the car revealed a feeding CAPPED HERON with a few other egrets. There may have been four of these elegant waders in this area although we only saw two together at any given time. Dusk was ushered in by the flight of the LESSER NIGHTHAWK and the tremulous whistle of the LITTLE TINAMOU. We returned to the lodge for our final dinner. Afterwards, we piled up the vehicle and made our final descent of Semaphore Hill, negotiated the traffic on Corredor del Norte and the road to the airport and came to rest at the Hotel Riande at the airport. A final listing and farewells followed.

Thanks to all for a great trip!